Japanese Sake : All Japan News,Inc

Sake aroma is difficult to describe in one phrase. However, focusing one’s senses helps to detect the aroma of various plants and food ingredients harmonized together. This issue introduces the below aromas detected in sake.

Summer Aromas
Chestnuts, cashew nuts, peanuts, roasted chestnuts, thin chestnut skin, walnuts, cacao, coconuts, hazelnuts, pine nuts, ginkgo and sesame.

Mineral Aroma
Mineral, stream water (mountain water streaming between the boulders), charcoal, stone, oil, mud wall and fossils.

Vegetable Aroma
Watercress, winter melon, gourd, butterbur, Japanese parsley, Chinese cabbage, rape blossoms, daikon radish, carrots, burdock, fern, bracken, butterbur sprout, white radish sprouts and asparagus.

Other Aromas
Marshmallow, milk candy, whipped cream, aroma of the coast, biscuit, cream puff shell, yogurt, candy drops, cottage cheese, peat moss, soymilk, custard, cream, aonori (green laver), kelp, cotton candy, crystal sugar, brown sugar sponge cake, wafer, condensed milk, honey, maple syrup, sherry, dried shrimp, pancakes, ambergris and beeswax.


日本酒物語　日本酒の味

酒の香りは一言では表せないもの。しかし神経を集中させると、いろいろな植物や食材の香りが共鳴していることに気付くはず。前回に続き下記の香りを紹介する。


夏を思わせる香り
くり、カシューナッツ焼き栗、栗の薄皮、くるみ、ピーナツ、カカオ、ココナツ、ヘイゼルナッツ、松の実、銀杏、ごま。

ミネラルを思わせる香り
ミネラル、岩清水、木炭、石、オイル、土塀、化石。

野菜を思わせる香り
クレソン、冬瓜、うり、ふき、ミツバ、白菜、采の花、大根、にんじん、ごぼう、センマイ、蕨、ふきのとう、かぶらカイワレ、アスパラガス。

その他を思わせる香り
マシュマロ、ミルクキャンディー、生クリーム、磯の香、ビスケット、シュークリームの皮、ヨーグルト、ドロップ、カテージチーズ、端磯の香、ミズゴケ、豆乳、カスタード、クリーム、青のり、昆布、わたあめ、ザラメ、カステラ黒糖、ウェアハウス、コンデンスミルク、蜂蜜、メープルシロップ、シェリー酒、干しエビ、ホットケーキ、龍涎香蜜、綿あめ、みつろう。

By Ryuji Takahashi
　
This report is a continuation of our trip to Niigata prefecture since the issue before last. Our final destination was Hakuro Shuzo Brewery in Nagaoka city, Niigata prefecture.
To touch on the history of the sake industry, the four-step preparation of fermentation mash was popularized throughout Japan from Nagaoka city, Niigata prefecture, home to approximately 16 sake breweries. The Hakuro Shuzo Brewery we visited is so prestigious, an entire book can be written on their history of various hardships the brand was protected from and survived.
The Hakuro brand was named with the character ‘oak,’ derived from three oaks forming the Makino family crest of the Nagaoka clan. Matahichi Yamazaki saved the Makino family from financial ruins and inherited the Hakuro brand. Stories of the Makino family and Yamazaki family are the most important part of discussing the history of the Hakuro brand.
On the day of our visit to the sake brewery, the Japanese gargoyle roof tile happened to be delivered, which we were permitted to view. I believe this tile would be interesting to anyone knowledgeable about the history of Niigata prefecture. I recommend a visit to the Hakuro Shuzo Brewery to review this roof tile to learn more about the history of the brewery. Our group happened to be very interested in how the brewery underwent changes in modern times. We visited looking forward to hearing from President, Shigeru Osaka how his concept of managing a “sake brewery” changed with the times since the brewery owner changed over time.
Of course, I am fully aware how delicious the sake is produced by Hakuro Shuzo Brewery. Slight seasonal changes in the brewing method and flavors are detectable in the “Sanzui series.” Their classic sake brands are “Hakuro” and “Three Oak.” The brewery also released sparkling sake and a collaborative brand NIIGATA ALBIREX BB. Sake produced by the Hakuro Shuzo Brewery is refreshing to the palate, consistent with sake brewed in Niigata prefecture; yet characteristic for it’s full-bodied flavor, rare for sake brewed in Niigata prefecture. In addition, the “Sanzui series” can differ significantly in flavor, depending on the production year. This is because the “Sanzui series” is still undergoing experimentation and evolving as a series. Already delicious as is, we can’t help but anticipate how much more flavorful the “Sanzui series” will become.
We toured the Hakuro Shuzo Brewery led by Master Sake Brewer, Mitsuaki Shirahara. The brewery was clean and spacious with many young sake brewers working on site. It’s wonderful to see Hakuro Shuzo Brewery raise the next generation of young sake brewers to take on sake production for the next generation. Workers appeared to be cleaning up after the day’s work at the time of our visit, yet we were permitted to tour the koji making room, storage tank, filtration machine and pasteurizer (a device that sterilizes sake with heat). Hakuro Shuzo Brewery seemed modern than most breweries we’ve visited so far. One advantage of sake brewed in a modern brewery is reliable quality.
Especially because of this day and age, sake by Hakuro Shuzo Brewery is enjoyable for its reliable, delicious flavors. Nagaoka city, Niigata prefecture is also known for their spectacular fireworks. The firework display, a summer highlight of Nagaoka city, was unfortunately cancelled this year due to the coronavirus pandemic. A longstanding tradition since the Meiji Era (1868 - 1912), the firework display was held as an ongoing festival to celebrate the city’s post-war recovery. Once the coronavirus pandemic is over, I look forward to seeing the firework display resume in Nagaoka city.

東京地酒散歩（新潟の旅・その３）

前々回から続く新潟の旅。最後は新潟県長岡市にある柏露酒造を訪れた。
酒の専門的な話になるが、四段仕込法を試醸し全国的に普及させたのは新潟長岡である。そんな長岡には日本酒蔵が16蔵程ある。今回訪れた柏露酒造とは、蔵の歴史を辿れば1冊の社会科の教科書が造れる程、名門でありその反面、沢山の苦労の中で銘柄を守ってきた酒蔵である。この柏露という銘柄は、長岡藩牧野家の家紋「三つ柏」の「柏」の字を取って誕生したとのこと。その牧野家の経営の窮地を救い柏露を譲り受けたのが山崎又七という人で牧野家と山崎家の話が柏露の歴史を語る上で最も重要な部分となる。当日、山崎家の鬼瓦が偶然にも酒蔵に届いたとの事で見せてもらった。新潟の歴史に詳しい人からすると非常に興味のある資料だと思う。是非酒蔵に行って鬼瓦を見て柏露酒造の歴史に触れていただきたいと思う。私自身は、蔵の現代の移り変わりに非常に興味があり、時代の流れの中、経営者が幾度か変わっていく事で「蔵元」という概念とは違う酒蔵運営を、尾坂 茂社長から直接聞けるのを楽しみにしていたのである。勿論、酒の美味さは充分解っている。季節で微妙に製法と味わいが変わる「さんずい」シリーズ。定番「柏露」「三つ柏」。スパークリングや新潟アルビレックスとのコラボ商品も出ている。柏露酒造の特徴としては、新潟らしいスッキリ感の中に新潟では珍しい深いコクがあることだ。しかも、「さんずい」シリーズは年によって味わいが大きく変わる場合がある。なぜなら「さんずい」シリーズは、まだまだ模索中で進化途中とのこと。今でも十分美味い「さんずい」が今後、どう美味くなるのかは期待しないわけにはいかないだろう。そんな酒造りを行っている酒蔵を白原光明大杜氏の案内で見せてもらったのだが、清潔感のある広い酒蔵で、比較的年齢の若い蔵人の姿も多く見うけられた。次世代の酒造りの世界を背負って立つ若者を育てられる酒蔵は本当に素晴らしいと思う。時間的に、片付けを行っている様子だったが、麹室や貯蔵タンク、濾過機やパストライザー（お酒の加熱殺菌をする機械）を見せてもらった。私が今回見てきた酒蔵の中ではかなり近代的な蔵に入る。近代的な酒蔵の造る酒のメリットは、品質に対する安心感だろう。こんな時だからこそ、柏露酒造の酒は安心して美味しく飲める酒であると言える。そして新潟県長岡市で有名なのは、やっぱり花火大会である。夏の風物詩である長岡の花火大会は今年、残念ながらコロナウイルスの影響で中止になってしまった。明治時代から続く、この長岡の花火は戦後の復興のお祭りとしても行なわれる様になったそうだ。コロナウイルスが終息し、その狼煙としてもう一度長岡の花火が打ち上がるのを私は楽しみにしている。

By Yuji Matsumoto

It's somewhat wasteful to use a high quality local regional sake for a cocktail, but if you use one that doesn't have too much of that full or rich taste when drank alone or doesn't have the distinctive smell of rice that many Japanese sakes have, you can make cocktails by adding fruits or syrups that brings out a surprising deliciousness.
For this issue, let me introduce you to sake and shochu cocktails that are also easy to make at home.

Nigori Sake and Peach Juice
3 oz. nigori sake
1 oz. peach juice (nectar family)
0.5 oz. peach syrup
Mix the above items with ice, and pour into a well chilled martini glass.
Its look will also be pink and popular cocktail with the ladies.

Pomegranate Martini with Japanese Sake
2 oz. Sake
1 oz. Shochu
1 oz. pomegranate juice
0.5 oz. pomegranate syrup
Mix the above items with ice and shake well in a shaker. Pour into a well chilled martini glass. It has the distinctive sourness and bitterness of pomegranate that is a cocktail fit for adults.

Shochu Grapefruit Mojito
2 oz. shochu
1 oz. sake
0.5 oz. yuzu juice with no salt
7-8 mint leaves
0.5 oz. syrup (ratio of 2 sugar to 1 hot water. Stir until completely dissolved and chilled until it reaches
room temperature)
Add the above items and grind down the mint with a muddler. Add ice and pour into a glass and dilute with club soda.
The fresh aroma of yuzu, grapefruit and mint is the characteristic. Caution is needed due to tendency to over drink.


日本酒と焼酎のカクテル

高級地酒をカクテルとして使うにはもったいないが、単独で飲んであまり味のふくらみやコクのないもの、または日本酒独特の米臭さのあるものは、フルーツやシロップを入れカクテルにすると以外な美味しさを演出してくれるものである。
今回は、家庭でも簡単にできる日本酒と焼酎のカクテルをご紹介しよう。

にごり酒とピーチジュース
3 oz.　にごり酒　
1 oz.　ピーチジュース（ネクター系）
0.5 oz.　ピーチシロップ　
上記の材料と氷を混ぜ、良く冷やしたマティーニグラス注ぐ。
見た目もピンクで女性うけするカクテル。

日本酒のザクロマティーニ
2 oz. 日本酒　
1 oz. 焼酎
1 oz. ザクロジュース
0.5 oz. ザクロシロップ
上記の材料と氷を入れ、シェイカーで良く振る。良く冷やしたマティーニグラスに注ぐ。ザクロの独特の酸味と苦味がある大人向きのカクテル。

焼酎グレープフルーツモヒート
2 oz.　焼酎
1 oz.　日本酒
0.5 oz. 無塩ユズジュース
3 oz.　グレープフルーツジュース
7~8　　ミント葉
0.5　oz.　シロップ（砂糖2に対してお湯1の割合。完全に溶けるまで混ぜ、常温になるまで冷ますこと）
上記材料を入れ、マドラーでミントをすり潰す。氷を入れ、グラスに注ぎ、クラブソーダで割る。　
ユズとグレープフルーツ、ミントのさわやかな香りが特徴。ついつい飲みすぎてしまうので注意が必要。

By Kosuke Kuji

The spread of the novel coronavirus caused a shortage of rubbing alcohol in the market.
Our company happens to distribute “alcohol,” licensed to produce alcohol as well.
However, Japanese sake is not highly concentrated alcohol. Our license we hold is for brewing Japanese sake, not a license to produce highly concentrated alcohol products.
In the midst of this dilemma, the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare issued an unprecedented notice to “permit the use of highly concentrated alcohol products produced by sake brewers to be used as rubbing alcohol by the healthcare industry.”
In addition, the Japanese National Tax Agency presiding over permits for alcohol production issued a notice stating, “Major steps will be taken to relax the regulation of alcohol production as rubbing alcohol.” Further, since highly concentrated alcohol can be seen as hazardous material, the Japanese Fire and Disaster Management Agency also issued a notice to “ensure speedy and flexible implementation of the Fire Service Act throughout the community,” encouraging the production of highly concentrated alcohol by various Japanese producers of regional sake, shochu, Awamori, and other “national alcoholic beverages” like ourselves for use as rubbing alcohol by the healthcare industry. I’d like to take this opportunity to express our sincere gratitude to the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, the Japanese National Tax Agency, and the Japanese Fire and Disaster Management Agency, etc., for their speedy decision to relax the regulations.
If someone was in need, I wouldn’t be able to pass by without offering help. Therefore, we immediately announced our decision to “produce rubbing alcohol,” and picked up the ball running.
Although we cannot produce surgical masks or protective clothing for the healthcare industry, we can definitely produce alcohol. Actually, we’re the only ones capable of producing rubbing alcohol.
We immediately launched our production of rubbing alcohol to fulfill our mission of helping those in need of rubbing alcohol to satisfy our responsibilities and mission as a licensed alcohol producer.



「酒類業者による消毒用アルコールの製造　その2」

新型コロナウィルスの蔓延で、世の中から消毒液がすっかりと無くなってしまいました。
私達は日本酒という「アルコール」を扱う会社であり、アルコールをつくるための免許もあります。
しかし、日本酒は高濃度のアルコールではありません。私達の持つ免許も日本酒を製造する免許で、高濃度のアルコール商品を製造する免許ではありません。
そんなジレンマを抱えていたら、厚生労働省が「酒造会社が製造する高濃度アルコール商品を医療機関の消毒に使っても良い」という異例の緩和通達を出しました。そこに重ねるようにアルコールの製造免許を所管する国税庁が「消毒用のアルコールの製造に関して大幅な免許緩和を行う」と通達を出し、さらに、高濃度アルコールは危険物にもなりますので、消防庁のほうでは「消防法の迅速かつ弾力的な運用を地域でする」という通達まで出て、日本各地の日本酒、焼酎、泡盛などの「國酒」を醸す私達が消毒用の高濃度アルコールを製造する事が制度上出来るようになりました。あらためて、厚生労働省、国税庁、消防庁の皆さんには迅速な緩和決定をしていただき心から感謝申し上げます。
そうなれば、私は目の前で困っている人がいて、その人を素通りして通り過ぎることが出来ません。即座に「消毒用アルコールを製造する」と宣言をして、走り始めました。
私達には医療用のサージカルマスクや防護服などは製造出来ませんが、アルコールなら製造出来ます。いや私達にしか消毒用アルコールは製造出来ないのです。
アルコールを製造する免許を持つ義務と責任と使命において、今目の前で困っている人を救うために立ち上がりました。

by Yuji Matsumoto

The logo is an important symbol that represents the product of a company. When reviewing products popular worldwide, each company studies how to best advertise their logos to have their consumers remember their logo, an important strategy. Regardless of the product, consumers are concerned with visual appeal for text and descriptions usually escape the memory.
Audi have four circles, Honda is the letter “H,” and apple is for Apple computers, logos are easy to memorize. This is also true for food products.
How does this apply to Japanese sake? Review of local ads for Japanese sake, it is difficult to see where the logo is, and often many of the brands don’t have one. It’s difficult to tell if the sake manufacturer’s name is the brand, or the product name is, or if another product name is the brand.
Even if a consumer likes a particular brand of sake, this makes it difficult for the consumers to make the connection between the brand of sake and the manufacturer, or other products offered by that manufacturer. Although the colors and size of bottles may change according to the brand, the brand logo should be made most noticeable for the labeling. Why not consider a logo that appeal to consumers?



日本酒のロゴブランディング

ロゴは、その会社の商品を象徴する最も大事なシンボルである。世界で売れている商品を見てみると各会社は、自社のロゴをどのように宣伝し消費者に覚えてもらうかのイメージ戦略をとっている。
どの商品を見てもまず消費者がみるのは、視覚的なものであり、文字や説明はあまり頭に入っていないものである。
4つの丸があるのはアウディ、Hならホンダ、リンゴならアップルコンピュータ、というようにブランドロゴは非常に我々の頭に入って行き易い。食品にしてもしかりである。
さて、日本酒はどうであろうか？もし、手元に日本酒の宣伝がある広告をみてもらうと分かると思うが、まずどれがブランドロゴなのか分かりにくいし、無いものも多い。酒造会社の名前がブランドなのか、商品名がブランドなのか、はたまた特定名称がブランドなのか、と思うくらいである。
これでは、消費者にとってせっかく気に入ってもらった商品があっても、その後の自社商品への購入やブランドを覚えてもらうことにつながりにくい。ボトルの色や大きさは商品によって変ってもブランドロゴは一番目に付く場所にラベリングすることが重要である。ブランドイメージ（ロゴ）についてもっと消費者に訴えるものを検討したらどうであろうか。

by Kosuke Kuji

As the novel coronavirus raged across Japan in March, many restaurants voluntarily shortened their business hours or shut down.
Since the state of emergency was declared, citizens were continuously advised not to dine out in restaurants or attend drinking parties in large groups. The tourism and restaurant industries were dealt a significant blow in Japan.
Restaurant owners were not exactly wringing their hands, as many restaurants started to accept take-out orders.
Although this is wonderful, alcohol permits in Japan stipulate alcoholic beverages purchased from restaurants must be consumed on the premises.
Take-home consumption is prohibited.
In such times, the news reported alcohol delivery and take-out sales from restaurants became legal in the U.S.
We sake breweries initiated an effort to establish a system allowing take-out sales of alcoholic beverages as permitted in the U.S. by dividing the volume into smaller portions, etc., to save our restaurant clientele. The National Tax Agency JAPAN, the administering agency of liquor licenses, immediately responded at a startling speed and lifted the ban to permit take-home sales of alcoholic beverages. However, thanks to the remarkable speed of the permit granted in only one day, many restaurants continue to use this system to accept take-out orders for both food and alcoholic beverages.
Restaurants, especially bars and pubs do not only serve food. Consumers enjoy satisfaction from savoring the sake selections chosen by the owner together with delicious cuisine in the ambiance of the establishment. We cannot yet enjoy the ambiance of a bar or pub, and the cuisine alone lacks the joy of dining out; however, adding the alcoholic beverage adds joy to a take-out meal consumed at home.
There must be more we could do. We sake breweries look forward to continuing our efforts.



酒豪大陸「飲食店の持ち帰り酒販免許特例解禁」

新型コロナウィルスが日本で猛威を振るっている3月、飲食店は自ら自粛をしたり、店舗のオープン時間を短くしたりしていました。
緊急事態宣言が出てからは、名指しで飲食店に行かないように、大人数の飲み会をしないように、と言われ続け、観光産業とともに、日本でもかなりの被害を受けているのが飲食店でした。
もちろん手をこまねいているわけではないのですが、テイクアウトを始める飲食店も多数出てきました。
それはそれで素晴らしいのですが、日本では免許の関係で、飲食店にあるお酒はその飲食店で飲まなければ行けません。
持ち出したりするのは禁止されています。
そんな中、アメリカでも飲食店にアルコールの持ち帰り販売が可能になったというニュースが出ました。
私達蔵元は飲食店さんを救うために日本でもアメリカ同様に、飲食店でお酒を小分けしたりして持ち帰り販売できる制度の創設に動きました。すぐさま免許を管轄する国税庁が呼応して、驚くほどの早さで飲食店でのお酒の持ち帰り免許が解禁されました。しかも申請から1日で認可されるというスピード感のすごさもあり、多くの飲食店さんがこの制度を使って今でも料理とお酒をテイクアウトしています。
飲食店、特に飲み屋さんは料理だけ出すお店ではありません。そこの主が選んだ自分の料理にあう日本酒をその雰囲気でおいしい料理と楽しむことで満足を得られます。雰囲気などは今は出来ませんが、料理だけでは飲み屋の魅力は少なく、これに酒がつく事で少しは飲み屋の良さを自宅で味わう事が出来ます。
やれることはたくさんあるはずです。酒蔵も頑張っていきたいと思います。

Tokyo Jizake Strolling (The Future Direction of Japanese Sake)

While the coronavirus threat is starting to subside in Tokyo, most residents are still in quarantine with some hesitant to step into restaurants where people congregate. As reported in the previous issue, people are determined to find creative ways to get through the tough economic times posing the greatest challenge for sake breweries and retail shops selling sake. The economy will not go back to normal right away. As Tokyoites gradually come out of quarantine, those who cannot telecommute are heading back to work in the cities, filling commuter trains that was empty until just recently, leaving no seats available.
This means demand will decrease among consumers who consume sake at home. However, restaurants cannot get back to normal business anytime soon, continuing to incur losses. Sake shops will continue to suffer losses in sales to customers and restaurants. This situation is expected to continue for several more months, with stay-at-home likely to continue outside of essential purposes to avoid a secondary infection. However, since restaurants, sake shops, and sake breweries are all inter-connected, sake breweries are also struggling. This timing gives evidence to how much sake consumption declined among Japanese nationals.
Traditionally, sake was found in every home and would expect sake consumption at home would increase under these conditions, therefore, sake shops and breweries should not be incurring losses hypothetically. One conclusion that may be drawn is that the PR teams and ambassadors of Japanese sake brands were not effective in their promotional efforts. Perhaps, their efforts to popularize Japanese sake were directed in the wrong direction. Japanese sake is a beverage casually consumed and closely tied into everyday life in Japan. Therefore, the increased wine consumption compared to the reduced sake consumption can be attributed to Japanese society as a whole.
This is a timing to take a long, hard look for PR teams of Japanese sake. However, all we can do for now is to drink sake. The difficult challenges can be addressed once the coronavirus threat passes completely. Also, I hear many people are cooking more and improving their cooking skills while staying home. Using regional sake for cooking is a great idea. For example, if using miso one day, or cooking wild game or fresh fish is a great reason to purchase regional sake to cook with or compliment the prepared cuisine. For example, in a community with regional cuisines prepared from mountain vegetables, why not purchase regional sake from a local brewery to prepare wild game and enjoy with the sake? Since the same sake was used in preparing the cuisine, there is no way the sake wouldn’t compliment the cuisine.
The message that is important to pass on is not knowledge pertaining to sake composition, etc., not simply to consume sake, but knowledge to closely and efficiently tie sake into daily life to increase the consumption volume of sake overall. Also, I pray business is back to normal by the time this article is published.



東京地酒散歩（日本酒の向かう場所）

　コロナウイルスの脅威が落ち着きつつある東京だが、まだまだ自粛ムードであり、人が集まる飲食店に行くのを躊躇う人も多い感じである。前回も書いたのだが、皆それぞれ工夫を凝らし、今を乗り切ることに必死であるが酒蔵・酒販店としては、一番苦しい時期だろう。直ぐに世の中が通常に戻るわけでは無い。東京も多少ステイホームの意識が緩み始め、テレワークだけでは済ませられない人達が仕事に出ている。ガラガラだった都心の通勤電車が座れなくなっているそうだ。そうなると家呑み需要が減るのだが、飲食店はまだまだ通常運転とはいかず苦しい状態が続いている。酒販店としては、一般のお客様販売も飲食店売りも減るだけである。まだまだこの状況が数か月続く予想なのだが、2次感染の事も考えて不要不急の外出は避けねばならないだろう。しかし、飲食店・酒販店・酒蔵は連結しているので、酒造メーカーも苦しいようだ。このタイミングで日本人がどれほど日本酒を飲まなくなったかが解かる。昔は各家庭に日本酒が有り、普通に考えたら家呑み需要が増え、そこまで大きく酒販店や酒蔵が厳しい状況になることは無いはずである。今回、日本酒ＰＲ活動家やアンバサダーと呼ばれる人達の活動の成果が出ていなかったと言えるだろう。日本酒普及の向かうべき方向が間違っていたのかもしれない。手軽で生活に密着した日本酒なのにワインを手本に難しくしてしまった世の中に責任は多少有るだろう。ＰＲ活動を行っている人達は真剣に考えねばならないタイミングだと考える。しかし、今は只ひたすら酒を飲むしかない。難しい事は、完全に世界的にコロナの脅威が過ぎ去ってから考えれば良い。因みに、このタイミングで自炊に目覚める人も多いと聞く。料理の腕が上がったという人もいる。料理酒として地酒を探すのも悪くない。例えば、今日は味噌を使うから・・・ジビエ系だから・・・新鮮な魚が手に入ったなどそのタイミングで飲む酒でもあり料理酒としてもその地域の特徴で酒を買うのも良いのではないだろうか。山の幸を主としている地域の酒蔵の酒を買いジビエ料理を作り、その料理を肴に酒を飲む。料理に使った酒を飲むので合わないわけがない。今後伝えていかねばならない事は日本酒の成分などの知識では無く、日本酒は飲むだけではなく上手に利用する事で生活に密着した物になり日本酒消費量が上がるという知識ではなかろうか。そして、この記事が掲載される時には活気のある世の中に戻っていることを祈るばかりである。

By Yuji Matsumoto


1. Cold or Hot
Many people think that high quality sake should be enjoyed chilled, but that is wrong. Compared to not needing to worry about the temperature for the better quality sakes, it is better to really chill the poor balanced sakes on the contrary. For one guideline, if it is a refreshing sake that has a flower or fruit type aroma, it’s better to chill them to enjoy the clean cut taste and aroma.

2. Which Sake is Better?
Which sake you like changes if the food you like regularly is rich or light so there is no exact answer, but I feel there is a tendency that someone that likes full body red wine will probably like a Junmai Kimoto or Honjozo type sake and someone that likes a young, fruity chardonnay will like a Daiginjo of Niigata prefecture type sake.

3. Drinking Cup
Not only for sake but for wines or beers, it’s amazing that the taste can drastically change depending on the glass. If you want to enjoy the taste and especially the aroma, a small white wine glass is good. For hot sake, so the steam of the alcohol is not smothering, a ceramic type with a slightly large mouth that holds the temperature is good. A wooden square doesn’t go well with aromatic Ginjo types but for sakes with definite body like Junmai types, you can enjoy them with the aroma of Cypress. Please enjoy cold or at room temperature if you have it that way.


 
日本酒Q&A

1、冷か燗か
多くの人は、高級酒は冷して飲むと思っているが、これは違う。質の良い日本酒ほど温度にあまりとらわれず飲むことができるのに対して、バランスの悪い酒は、キンキンに冷やした方が逆に良い。一つの目安としては、花や果実系の香りのするすっきりとした日本酒は、冷した方が味の切れと香りが楽しめる。

2、いいお酒はどれ
普段の自分の好む料理がこってり系なのか、あっさり系なのかによっても日本酒の好みも変わってくるので一概には言えないが、フルボディーの赤ワイン系が好きな人は、おそらく純米生酛や本醸造系が気に入るだろうし、若いフルーティーなシャルドネが好きな人は、新潟の大吟醸系が気に入る傾向にある。

3、飲む器
日本酒に限らず、ワインやビールでもグラスによって味が全く変わるから不思議。味、特に香りを楽しみたいのであれば、小さめの白ワイングラスが良い。熱燗の場合は、アルコールの蒸気が抜け、むせない少し口の大きな陶器系で保温性のあるものが良い。
木の枡は、香る吟醸系にはあまりむかないが、純米などのしっかりとしたボディーの日本酒には、ヒノキの香りが出て美味しく感じられる。その際は、冷か常温で飲む。


 
清酒問答

1. 冷或熱
許多人認為高級清酒都是冷藏後飲用，但事實並非如此。高品質的清酒就算溫度不同仍然可口，但味道不平衡的清酒反而該冰凍飲用。根據經驗，清爽、帶有花香或果香的清酒，冷卻後可享受清爽的餘韻和香氣。

2. 哪些才是好酒
不能一概而論，因為我所喜好的清酒味道，會隨我平時喜歡吃的食物味道是重還是淡而變化。不過如果您喜歡酒體豐厚的紅酒，可能會喜歡純米生酛或本釀造系的酒；如果您偏好年輕果味的莎當妮，可能會喜歡新潟市的大吟釀系的酒。

3. 飲酒容器
奇怪的是，不僅清酒，葡萄酒和啤酒也會根據酒杯的不同，口味也有所不同。如果您想享受味道，尤其是香味，可以使用小的白葡萄酒杯。在熱燗（熱飲）的情況下，最好使用陶器，該陶器的嘴要稍大一些，以防止酒精蒸氣逸出時給嗆到，並使其保持溫暖。
木質的枡（像一個小木盒一樣的杯）不適合帶有香味的吟釀系清酒，但是用來喝如純米等酒體紮實的清酒，側會散發出一絲絲檜木香，感覺很美味。在這種情況下，請在冷或常溫下飲用。


 
일본술 Q & A

1, 차갑게 아니면 따뜻하게?
대부분 고급술은 차갑게 마시는 것으로 생각하기 쉽지만, 이는 틀린 생각입니다. 양질의 일본술일수록 온도와 상관없이 마실 수 있지만, 밸런스가 나쁜 술은 아주 차갑게 마시는 편이 오히려 좋습니다. 꽃이나 과실류의 향이 나는 깔끔한 맛의 일본술은 차갑게 마시는 것이 산뜻한 뒷맛과 향을 즐길 수 있습니다.

2, 좋은 술의 기준
평소 자신이 좋아하는 요리가 진한 맛인지 담백한 맛인지에 따라 좋아하는 일본술도 달라지기 마련입니다. 따라서 모두 다 그런 것은 아니지만, 풀바디의 와인을 좋아하는 사람은 대체로 준마이 기모토(純米生酛)나 혼죠조(本醸造)를 좋아하고, 풍부한 과일향의 영한 샤르도네를 좋아하는 사람은 니가타의 다이긴죠(大吟醸)를 즐기는 경향이 있습니다.

3, 술잔
신기하게도 일본술뿐만 아니라 와인과 맥주도 잔에 따라 맛이 변합니다. 맛, 특히 향을 즐기고 싶다면 작은 화이트 와인잔이 안성맞춤입니다. 데운 술을 마실 때는 알코올의 증기가 빠져 습기가 차지 않는 약간 입구가 큰 도자기로, 보온성이 있는 것이 좋습니다.
나무로 만든 병은 향기로운 긴죠(吟醸)에는 잘 어울리지 않지만, 준마이(純米) 등의 깔끔한 바디의 일본술에는 히노키 향이 더해져 더 맛있게 마실 수 있습니다. 이때는 차갑거나 상온으로 마십니다.

In this issue, I’d like to pass on to our readers a trick that enhances one’s abilities to pair sake with food.
First, please select three brands of sake with very different properties. The differences in properties are hard to tell without drinking the sake, but first, let’s select the sake according to the information listed on each label.
For example, please select a Junmai Daiginjo, Tokubestu Junmai, and Junmai Kimoto, all produced in different regions like Akita, Niigata, and Hyogo prefectures, etc. Sake produced in the U.S. are reasonably priced, for including a few of these brands in the mix may also be fun.
Once we have the sake, please grab some wine glasses (white wine glasses are better). Please be sure to use the same shaped glass for each of the three sake brands. It’s best to store the glasses in the refrigerator for approximately 3 hours and to maintain their temperature at 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
And now, for the cuisine. Those who have time can prepare the food yourself, of course. However, I recommend takeout for those who want to compare the sake with many dishes from various types of cuisine. There’s no need to stick with Japanese cuisine, for it’s fun to also pair sake with Chinese and Italian (please avoid excessively spicy or strong garlic-flavored dishes) cuisines.
Please be careful to compare the balance between the sake and the food upon consumption, the changes detected in the umami flavors, and any changes in the aroma particular to that food, and aftertaste. If these factors in the pairing are satisfying, then it’s safe to say the pairing was a “success.”


日本酒と食のペアリング

今回は、ちょっとした心がけで日本酒と料理のペアリング能力が上がるコツを教えたい。
まずは、なるべく性質の違う日本酒3銘柄を用意していただきたい。性質の違いは、本当は飲んでみないとなかなか分かりにくいが、とりあえずはラベルで判断できる情報で選んでみる。
たとえば、純米大吟醸、特別純米、純米生酛で全く違う産地のものを見つけてみる。秋田、新潟、兵庫など。米国産の日本酒も手軽な価格なのでこれらも入れると面白い。
日本酒が揃ったら今度は、ワイングラス（白ワイングラスがベター）を用意する。
3銘柄の酒は必ず同じ形状のグラスを使うこと。その際、3時間くらい冷蔵庫に保存し、55度Fくらいになるようにしておく。
さて料理だが、時間のある人は料理を自分で作ってもいいし、違う種類のものを複数食べ比較したい場合はテイクアウトを勧める。何も日本食に限らず、たとえば、中華、イタリアンなど（あまりスパイシーなものやニンニクの強いものは避ける）で試すのも面白い。
注意する点は、日本酒を飲んだ時の料理との調和、旨みの変化、その食特有の臭さの変化、後味だ。これらが心地よければペアリングは、「良い」こととなる。

 
清酒與食物的襯托

這次，希望能傳授「如何只花少許心思就能提高清酒與料理的襯托能力」的竅門。
首先，準備三款具有不同特性的清酒品牌，其特性差異越多越好。雖然若非實際試飲，很難理解其特性差異；但首先請嘗試透過可在標籤上確定到的信息來選擇。
例如，嘗試尋找產地全異的純米大吟釀、特殊純米酒和純米生酛酒。秋田、新潟、兵庫等。美國製造的清酒價格相對便宜，因此添加它們亦有趣味。
收集好清酒後，準備酒杯（以白葡萄酒杯為佳）。
請務必對該三款品牌的清酒使用相同形狀的玻璃杯。此時，將其存放在冰箱內3個小時左右，使其溫度到達55°F左右。
接下來是料理部分。如果有時間可以自行製作；如果想嘗試多種食物並進行比較，建議外賣。不僅日本料理，亦可嘗試中式、意式料理等（但請避免調味料太重或蒜味太濃的食物），亦別有一番趣味。
需多加注意的是喝清酒時與料理的調和、味道的變化、食物特有氣味的變化以及其餘味。如果這些都令你感覺舒適，此一配對便能稱為「好」。

 
니혼슈(일본술)와 음식의 페어링

오늘은 니혼슈와 음식의 페어링 실력이 좋아지는 방법에 대해 소개하고자 합니다.
먼저 되도록 성질이 서로 다른 니혼슈 3종을 준비합니다. 사실, 성질의 차이는 마셔봐야 알 수 있지만 우선 라벨에서 확인할 수 있는 정보를 바탕으로 선택해 봅니다.
예를 들어, 준마이 다이긴죠(純米大吟醸), 도쿠베츠 준마이(特別純米), 준마이 기모토(純米生酛) 등 원산지가 전혀 다른 것들로 찾아봅니다. 아키타, 니가타, 효고 등이 있을 수 있습니다. 미국산 니혼슈도 가격이 저렴하기 때문에 비교해보면 재미있습니다.
니혼슈가 준비되면 와인잔 (화이트 와인잔을 추천)을 준비합니다.
3종의 술은 반드시 동일한 형상의 와인잔을 사용할 것. 이때 3 시간 정도 냉장고에 보관하여 약 55°F로 차게 해둡니다.
요리는 시간에 여유가 있는 경우, 직접 만드는 것도 좋으나 여러 종류의 음식을 먹어보고 비교하기 위해서는 테이크아웃을 권합니다. 일식뿐만 아니라 중식, 이탈리안 등 (너무 맵거나 마늘 맛이 강한 음식은 피하도록 한다)으로 시도해보는 것도 재미있습니다.
이때 주의해야 할 점은 니혼슈를 마셨을 때 음식과의 조화, 맛의 변화, 음식 특유의 냄새 변화, 뒷맛 등입니다. 이러한 점이 음식과 함께 했을 때 좋았다면 페어링하기 ‘좋다’고 표현할 수 있습니다.

By Yuji Matsumoto

Even if it is good tasting, if you're not able to relay that, customers will not try it. Also, if the timing to relay the information and contents are not sufficient, this will not lead to sales. We like to talk about how we can relay the appeal of sake to customers with the right timing and ideal content that will lead to sales.

Who are we relaying the information to?
Are you providing sufficient training separately for chefs, servers, and bartenders? Just by giving a little taste, there is absolutely no way you can explain the fineness of sake to customers. You need to make them thoroughly understand why a particular sake is delicious. Also, you can only understand 10% of the fineness of the sake if you drink it as a single item, so you definitely need to make them try the sake with the right dish.

Timing
We certainly feel that instead of a server asking "What would you like to have?" when taking a drink order from a customer, change it to "How would you like a cold, very delicious glass of sake?" It will make a big difference when you ask this.

Content we are relaying

For example, "Would you like to try AAA brand of Niigata which is dry and refreshing?" or
"Would you like to try BBB brand of Akita which has the fullness that goes well with teriyaki etc?" etc, to think of sales talk that is easy for customers to understand and to make them want to try.


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顧客に日本酒の素晴らしさを伝える

どんな美味しいものでも、それを伝えなければ顧客は試さない。また、その情報を伝達するタイミングや内容が適切でなければ、これも販売につながらない。では、どのようなタイミングで適切に日本酒の魅力を顧客に伝え、販売につなげるかを考えてみたい。

伝える人は誰なのか
板前、サーバー、バーテンダーなりに適切なトレーニングをしているか。単に少し飲ませただけでは、絶対に日本酒の良さを顧客に説明できないはず。なぜ、この酒は、美味しいのかをしっかりと勉強させること。また、単独で飲んだだけでは、一割もその酒の良さが理解できないので、必ず料理と合わせ試飲をさせること。

タイミング
やはり、サーバーがドリンクオーダーを取る時に顧客に「お飲み物をいかがいたしましょうか？」という一言を、「冷えたとても美味しい日本酒は、いかがですか」と変えてみること。この一言で大きな違いが生まれる。

伝える内容
たとえば、ドライですっきりしていてとてもスシに合う新潟のAAA銘柄はいかがでしょうか？または、照り焼きなどに合うボディーがある秋田のBBB銘柄はいかがでしょうか？など、お客に分かりやすく、トライしてみたくなるセールストークを考える。

 
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向顧客傳達清酒的美妙

即使是何等的美酒，如果顧客不獲知悉，就不會嘗試。而且，如果傳達信息的時機和內容並不合適，亦不能成功作出銷售。那麼，請思考一下在甚麼時機適切地為顧客傳達清酒的魅力會帶來成功的銷售。

由誰傳達
是否以「板前(日式料理廚師)」、服務員或調酒師身份進行了適當的培訓？單純提供試飲，並無法向顧客解釋清酒的優點。請確保顧客已清楚了解這種酒為何美味。另外，單獨喝酒，即使是酒的一成優點亦無法理解；故請配合料理提供試飲。

時機
當服務員聽取飲料訂單時，嘗試將詢問顧客的問題由「請問已決定好飲料了嗎？」更改為「請問要嘗試一下冰涼可口的清酒嗎？」。這句話將會引發重大變化。

傳達內容
考慮一些易於令客戶理解和嘗試的銷售談話。例如「要嘗試干型，與壽司非常匹配的新潟市AAA品牌嗎？」或是「要嘗試酒體飽滿，與照燒等非常匹配的秋田BBB品牌嗎？」等。

 
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고객에게 니혼슈(일본술)의 훌륭함을 전하다

아무리 좋은 것이라도 알리지 않는다면 고객은 시도하지 않습니다. 게다가 그 정보를 전달하는 타이밍과 내용이 적절하지 않다면 판매로 이어지지 않습니다. 그렇다면 어떤 타이밍에 적절하게 니혼슈(일본술)의 매력을 고객에게 전달하여 판매로 연결해나가는 게 좋을지 생각해봅시다.

정보를 전달하는 사람은 누구인가
전문 셰프, 서버, 바텐더, 각각 적절한 교육이 이루어지고 있는지 체크해봅시다. 단순히 한 두 모금 마신 경험 가지고는 절대로 니혼슈의 매력을 고객에게 설명할 수 없을 것입니다. 이 술이 왜 맛있는지를 정확하게 공부시킬 것. 또한 술만 마셔서는 그 술의 장점을 전혀 이해할 수 없으므로 반드시 음식과 함께 시음하게 할 것.

타이밍
서버가 주문을 받을 때 고객에게 하는 "술은 어떻게 하시겠습니까?" 이 한마디를 "정말 맛있는 시원한 니혼슈 한잔 어떻습니까?”로 바꿔 볼 것. 이 한마디로 인해 큰 변화가 생길 것입니다.

고객에게 전달할 내용
예를 들어, 드라이하고 깔끔한 맛이 있어 초밥과 아주 잘 어울리는 니가타AAA 등급은 어떻습니까? 또는 구이요리에 잘 어울리는 바디감 있는 아키타 BBB는 어떻습니까? 등등 고객이 이해하기 쉽고 시도해보고 싶어할 만한 세일즈 토크를 고안해보면 좋을 것입니다.