Japanese Sake : All Japan News,Inc

Taste difference of different Sakes certainly originates from labels displaying rice polish or sake categories, but even more it is strongly influenced by the sake making process using koji mold etc or the water quality. That starts from rice selection, rice milling, soak time, steamed rice, koji mold and temperature maintenance, yeast cultivation, pressing, blending, pasteurize etc the list can be endless. By delicately adjusting the way the processes are intertwined, breweries are able to make the sakes they want.

There are many different special names & difficult phrasings in Japanese like "unfiltered sake", "Kimoto (traditional brewing method)", "Yamahai (traditional brewing method)", "Shiboritate (freshly pressed)", but in the first place there would hardly be any consumer that can understand what they mean. Even if they could understand, they wouldn't be able to pass on the taste or aroma, how it goes with food, creating inspiration to drink or motive to the consumers.

Instead, if you were to explain that "It's a Junmai Daiginjo that goes great
with whitefish and holds back the aroma", consumers would understand better. If you were to say "Kimoto Junmai that goes well with meat dishes" or "xxx Junmai goes exceptionally well with grilled fish" etc. would produce motive for consumers to drink.

To increase more sake drinking fans, it is important for breweries to describe inspiration creation to want to drink sake on their menus and labels.

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飲むきっかけ作り

日本酒の味の違いは、もちろんラベルに表示されている精米歩合や特定名称からも起因されるが、それより麹造りなどの全体作業（造り）や水質によって大きく影響される。それは、米の選別から始まり、精米方法、浸漬時間、蒸し方、麹造りと温度管理、酵母の培養、絞り、ブレンディング、貯蔵、火入れなど挙げれば切りが無い。これらが微妙に絡み合い調整することにより蔵の造りたい酒が出来てくる。

特定名称や難しい表現「無ろ過生原酒」「生もと造り」「山廃造り」「絞りたて」など色々と日本語でラベルに書かれているが、そもそもこの意味が何を意味しているのかを理解している消費者は、ほとんどいない。たとえ理解したとしても味や香り、食事との相性、飲んでみたいきっかけや動機を消費者に与えていない。

それより、「白身魚との抜群な相性、香りを控えめにした純米大吟醸」とした方が消費者は分かりやすい。「肉料理にも合う、生もと純米」、「焼き魚と抜群な相性を持つxxx純米」などとした方が消費者に飲む動機を与える。

日本酒ファンをもっと広げるためには、日本酒を飲んでみたいきっかけ作りをメニューやラベル上で表現することが重要である。

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釀製喝酒契機

不言而喻，清酒的味道差異某程度上來自標籤上顯示的精米步合（經處理後的白米與原料玄米的比重）和特別名稱等；但誘發更大影響的會是製麹等的整體製作程序，水質等。製作程序是由挑選米、精米（玄米處理）手法、浸泡時間、蒸煮方法、製麹和溫度管理、培養酵母、壓榨、混合、保存、高溫殺菌等數之不盡的工序所組成。通過絕妙地調整各工序，酒藏可以製作出其所想製作的酒。

雖然標籤上寫有許多特別名稱或艱澀用語如「無過濾生原酒（指沒有經過任何後期加工，於壓榨後直接裝瓶的酒）」、「生酛（手製酵母）造酒」、「山廢（略過山卸工序）造酒」、「鮮榨」等；但事實上卻只有為數極少的消費者了解上述用語的意義。再者，即使理解箇中意味，亦無法因此令消費者理解其香味、味道、與料理的襯托程度；更不能帶給消費者嘗試該酒的契機或動力。

相反，如以「與白魚極為配襯，香味清淡的純米大吟釀」等方法說明，會更易令消費者明白。而「亦與肉類料理配襯的生酛純米酒」，「與燒魚極為配襯的ＸＸＸ純米酒」等表達手法，能賦予消費者嘗試的契機。

為進一步增加清酒愛好者的數量，在選單或標籤上創造出「想喝清酒的契機」極為重要。

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마실 기회 만들기

일본 술은 라벨에 표시된 정미 비율과 특정 명칭에 따라 맛에 차이가 납니다. 하지만 누룩 만들기 등 전체 작업(만들기)과 물의 질에 따라 크게 영향을 받습니다. 쌀의 선별부터 정미 방법, 침지 시간, 증류 방법, 누룩 만들기와 온도 관리, 효모 배양, 짜기, 브랜딩, 저장, 불의 세기 등 차이를 만드는 요소는 셀 수 없을 정도로 많습니다. 이런 요소가 미묘하게 서로 얽히고 적절하게 섞여 원하는 술이 만들어집니다.

‘무로카나마겐슈’, ‘기모토즈쿠리’, 야마하이즈쿠리’, ‘시보리다테’ 등 특정 명칭과 어려운 표현으로 다양하게 일본어 라벨에 표시하지만, 애당초 그 의미가 무엇을 의미하는지 이해하는 소비자는 거의 없습니다. 예를 들어 이해한다고 해도 맛과 향, 식사와의 조합을 다 알 수 없고, 마시고 싶은 계기와 동기를 소비자에게 부여하지도 않습니다.

이것보다는 ‘흰 살 생선과 최고의 조합, 향을 줄인 준마이 다이긴죠’라고 표시하는 편이 소비자가 더 알기 쉽습니다. ‘육류 요리와도 잘 어울리는 기모토 준마이’, ‘구운 생선과 찰떡 궁합인 XXX 준마이’ 등으로 표현하는 것이 소비자에게 마시고 싶은 동기를 부여합니다.

일본 술이 더욱더 많은 사람에게 사랑받기 위해서는 일본 술을 마시고 싶도록 메뉴와 라벨에 표현하는 것이 중요합니다.

By Aya Ota

A steak specialty fast food franchise, “Pepper Lunch”,opened its first New York location on March 21 of this year, and is drawing a lot of attention because the second location opened on July 3, already only 3 and a half months later.

At “Pepper Lunch”,, you order and pay first, and sit down at a table, and wait. Then, a sizzling hot iron plate arrives, and you, the customer, cooks your steak by yourself.

Not only can you cook your steak to your favorite doneness, but you canalso make it to suit your taste by adding their original steak sauce and toppings. Popularity was spurred by the fact that you can have good quality steak at a reasonable cost, and they have so far developed 470 locations in 16 countries worldwide (136 in Japan).

“Pepper Food Services Co., Ltd.” (“Kuni’s Corporation” in US), whichruns this restaurant chain, opened their first location in the US in February of 2017. They brought “Ikinari Steak”, their super popular chain in Japan known for its unique style of selling by weight, and having you eat standing up, on top of low pricing, to the East Village District of New York, and became the topic of conversation. Only within 2 years, they expanded their business to 11 locations in New York. In October of 2018, they got listed on NASDAQ as the first restaurant business from Japan. However, due to the later slow-down of the achievement, they were forced to make a big change in their business strategy, and closed 7 locations this year. They also made an announcement to withdraw from NASDAQ this fall.

Kunio Ichinose, Founder & CEO admits humbly; “Back then, I was stuck with the idea of replicating the Japanese way. I had no fear and was reckless. What to serve by how much and to whom? I was wrong about this from the start of our coming to the US,” he continues. Here in the States, steak is a luxurious and special food. The quality and taste of what we offered was well accepted, but low pricing and stand-up eating style did not go well.

Moreover, due to the facts such as the hasty increase of locations, and having a no-tipping system caused hardship in hiring and educating of the staff, which eventually led to compromising in the quality of the service. And this time, as the result of the big trajectory correction, they will concentrate on enhancing the brand power by continuing to run “Ikinari Steak” at 2 out of the 4 remaining locations, and develop “Pepper Lunch” at the other 2 locations because this model has a good record in developing overseas.

Overseas development of “Pepper Lunch” started 14 or 15 years ago in Singapore. They went to Australia next, and kept progressing differently from Japan in creating menus and developing styles according to the local needs. In 2018, they opened 2 locations in LA. They are developing this New York locations by bringing in a lot of these other overseas successful experiences from the past.

Their signature dish is the “Pepper Rice”, in which steak and rice is cooked together like fried rice. Since the opening of the first New York location, they have been quickly taking note of customers’ preferences, and started to serve variations with seafood such as shrimp and salmon. In addition to the steadily-desired steaks, they have added dishes combined with a hamburger patty and curry, which are not often found in the US. They also added combo dishes to the menu such as a 2 different kinds of steak combo, and combination dishes with a hamburger patty on the menu. They use only top 36% quality USDA certified Angus beef. Cup-sake is also offered, and is well accepted. They are steadily increasing fans by excitement and the heightened emotions that the customers feel from eating self-cooked food with lively noise and aroma.

They are planning to open another franchise restaurant in Las Vegas by the end of this year. Mr. Ichinose’s ambition “to spread casual steak culture, in which you eat steak regularly, and Japanese steak to all over the US” is unstoppable.


目の前で焼き上げる興奮と感動 ファストフード・ステーキハウス『ペッパーランチ』

ステーキ専門のファストフード・チェーン『ペッパーランチ』が、今年3月21日にニューヨーク初上陸を果たし、そのわずか3カ月半後の7月3日に2号店を開店し、注目されている。

同店では、来店後まず注文・会計を済ませ、テーブルに着席し待っていると、熱々の鉄板が運ばれてきて、客自らステーキを焼き上げるというスタイル。好みの焼き加減に仕上げられるだけでなく、同店オリジナルのステーキソースや追加トッピングを加え、好みの味付けに調えることができる。上質のステーキ肉を安価に食べられることも人気に拍車をかけ、現在では、世界16カ国に約470店舗（うち日本国内136店舗）を展開している。

同チェーンを運営する『株式会社ペッパーフードサービス』（米国法人『Kuni’s Corporation』）の米国初進出は2017年2月のこと。量り売りしたステーキを立ち食いするという独自性と低価格がウリで日本国内でも圧倒的な人気を誇る『いきなり！ステーキ』を、ニューヨークのイーストヴィレッジ地区に開店し話題となった。その後わずか2年でニューヨーク市内に11店舗まで拡大。2018年10月には、日本の外食産業では初となるナスダック上場も果たした。しかし、その後の業績不振により、大幅な戦略変更を強いられ、今年に入って7店舗を閉店したほか、今秋にはナスダック上場廃止することも発表した。

「当時は、日本でのやり方を再現することに固執していた。怖いもの知らずで無謀だった」と潔く語るのは、創業者で代表取締役社⻑の⼀瀬邦夫氏。「誰に何をいくらで提供するのか。米国進出では、この点を最初から間違えてしまった」と続ける。本場・米国では、ステーキは贅沢で特別な料理。同店が提供するステーキの品質や美味しさは高く評価されたものの、低価格や立ち食いといったコンセプトが浸透しなかった。また急速に店舗拡大したことやチップ制を導入しなかったことで、従業員採用や育成に苦戦し、サービスの質低下を招いてしまった。そして、今回、大幅な軌道修正を図った結果、残した4店舗のうち2店舗で『いきなり！ステーキ』継続しブランド力を高めることに注力し、もう2店舗では海外での出店実績が豊富にある『ペッパーランチ』を展開する。

『ペッパーランチ』の海外進出は14〜15年前、シンガポールが最初だった。その後、オーストラリアへ拡大し、現地ニーズに合わせてメニューや運営面も、日本とは違う発展を遂げていった。2018年にはロサンゼルスにも2店舗開店。ニューヨークの新店舗では、これら海外での成功事例を大いに取り入れた展開となっている。

同店を代表するメニューは、ステーキ肉とご飯を炒飯のように焼き上げる「ペッパーライス」だが、ニューヨーク1号店の開店以降、客の要望を迅速に吸い上げ、海老やサーモンなど魚介類を取り入れたペッパーライスも開始した。また、安定需要があるステーキに加え、米国ではあまり見かけないハンバーグやカレーを組み合わせたメニューも追加した。さらにはステーキ2種類や、ステーキとハンバーグの組み合わせなど、コンボメニューも加えた。牛肉は、USDA認定アンガス牛のうち、トップ36％の品質のみ採用している。カップ酒も提供し、評判は上々だ。客自ら、ジュージューと音や香りを立てながら調理して食べる興奮や感動で、着々とファンを増やしている。

年内にはラスベガスにフランチャイズ店を開店予定だ。「日常的にステーキを食べるカジュアル・ステーキ文化、ジャパニーズ・ステーキを米国に広めたい」という一瀬氏の野望はとどまることがない。

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Pepper Lunch Broadway
243 W 54th St. New York, NY 10019
(917) 472-7158

Pepper Lunch Chelsea
154 7th Ave, New York, NY 10011
(917) 409-5857

https://pepperlunch-usa.com/

Mon.-Sun. 11:00am-11:00pm
(Last Call: 10:30pm)

By Keiko Fukuda

The two words, “Nagoya” and “ramen”, were not linked together in my mind.

Then, in May of 2019, a friend, who is from Nagoya, asked me to go to this Nagoya-originated establishment with me, which just had its grand opening. That was when I first recognized Josui Ramen. Here, in Los Angeles, it has been a while since the popularity of tonkotsu ramen settled in, and lately, shoyu ramen is also gaining attention. This Josui Ramen’s signature ramen is, however, shio ramen. Besides shio ramen, their menu also contains shoyu ramen, miso ramen, tantan men, and yusoba. However, I thought that I could not judge how good they really were unless I tried the signature dish. So, I ordered the Josui ramen, which had a flavor so tender and deep.

After the visit, I often heard from my acquaintances saying, “I went to Josui Ramen”. I wanted to find out how well they had been doing after their first launching in the US, so I visited them again a while after the grand opening.

Three people, Mr. Yasuhiro Maruyama and Mr. Hiroya Morikawa, the partners/owners of Josui Ramen America, and Mr. Tomohiro Maehara, the chef sent from the Nagoya headquarters, welcomed me. I found out that the Josui Ramen chain is so enormously popular that they have won No. 1 status in various ramen ranking contests in the Tokai region of Japan. Chef Maehara, whose family in his hometown runs a ramen restaurant, had visited as many ramen restaurants as possible, and then decided to work for Josui Ramen. I asked him what part of Josui he found attractive. He answered, “You usually cannot separate ramen from the use of synthetic seasoning, but Josui’s ramen is made only with all natural flavors. You can taste the goodness of natural ingredients with Josui’s ramen.”

In view of launching a full-fledged business in the States, Josui Ramen started to participate in ramen fairs held in Orange County, etc., a few years ago under the direction of Mr. Tateo Araki, CEO of Wildwood co. Ltd, their management company. Convinced of a firm possibility of success felt there, they were looking for a location in the Los Angeles area. The present location in Torrance was introduced during that time when the building was unused due to renovation. The owner of the property is Mr. Maruyama, who runs a restaurant/karaoke bar next door to the present Josui Ramen, and another one in Lomita, an adjacent town. Maruyama-san wanted to join the launch of Nagoya’s Josui Ramen in the US, and decided to invest in it, and then Mr. Morikawa joined in its operation by being called by Maruyama-san.

This restaurant had a soft opening in the fall of 2018, and experienced some hardship before finally making the grand opening. I asked Mr. Maehara, who worked for 6 years with the Josui Ramen business in Nagoya, about the difference of the US from it. He said, “First, the water is different, so we installed a machine to make the water soft. We also struggled to find chicken that could produce good dashi. We continued the search of good enough chicken, and were finally able to find it through the help of a Japanese American company.” He said, that they have reached the stable and consistent taste now.

Only in America, they offer vegan ramen on the menu. They newly added this item, which doesn’t exist in Nagoya, knowing that there are many more vegans in the US than expected. Konbu is used for shoyu ramen, and soy milk is used for miso ramen.

As of July of this year, 60% of the customers are Japanese. All 3 say the same thing. “We came here to convey the authentic taste of Nagoya ramen, so we want to increase the ratio of the local customers from now on.” In order to realize the purpose of “conveying the real ramen taste to America”, they must be looking for the possibility of further development of the chain, I thought. I asked them about it. Each gentleman passionately spoke about their thoughts on Josui. Mr. Maruyama said, “I aim for conquering the whole US, but I would like to firmly stabilize this Torrance location first. I am expecting some after-Karaoke crowd since we are right next to it.” Mr. Morikawa said, “I’d like many people to know that there is such simple, but delicious ramen besides tonkotsu.” Mr. Maehara said, “I’d like people to taste our ramen made with so much care and particularity.”


名古屋の大人気ラーメン 自然由来のシンプルな味わい

「名古屋」と「ラーメン」という２つのワードは筆者の中では結びついていなかった。ところが2019年５月、グランドオープニングを迎えたばかりの名古屋発祥の如水ラーメンに名古屋出身者に誘われて行った際に、その存在を初めて知った。ここロサンゼルスでは豚骨ラーメンが人気を集めて久しく、最近は醤油ラーメンも注目されるようになっているが、この如水ラーメンのシグニチャーラーメンはさっぱりした塩ラーメンだ。メニューには如水ラーメンの他にも醤油ラーメン、味噌ラーメン、坦々麺や油そばが並んでいる。しかし、シグニチャーディッシュをいただかないことにはその店の実力は測れない。そこでいただいた如水ラーメン、実に優しく奥の深い味だった。

その後、知り合いの間から「如水ラーメンに行ってきた」という声が頻繁に聞かれるようになった。そこで、グランドオープニングから少し時間が経ったタイミングで、アメリカ進出後の手応えを聞こうと同店を訪れた。迎えてくれたのは、アメリカの如水ラーメンの協同経営者である丸山康弘さんと森川博也さん、そして名古屋の本家から派遣されているシェフの前原智之さんの３名。聞けば、如水ラーメンは数多のラーメンランキングにおいて、東海地区で１位に輝く超人気店だという。実家がラーメン店を経営している前原さんは、あらゆるラーメン店を食べ歩き、自分の勤務先に如水ラーメンを選んだのだそうだ。如水ラーメンのどこに惹かれたのかと聞くと、「ラーメンと言えば化学調味料と切り離しては考えられないのですが、如水のラーメンは、天然そのままの味で勝負しています。素材の良さを味わえるのが如水のラーメンです」と答えた。

如水ラーメンは本格的なアメリカ上陸を視野に、経営元のワイルドウッド株式会社代表の荒木建夫さんの主導の下、オレンジ郡などで開催されるラーメンフェアに数年前から出展していた。そこでの確かな手応えを得て、ロサンゼルスエリアで物件を探していた時に、改装を目的に店舗が空いていたトーランスの今の場所を紹介されたという。その店舗のオーナーが、隣の市ロミータと今の如水ラーメンの隣でカラオケを含む飲食店を経営する丸山さん。丸山さんは名古屋の如水ラーメンのアメリカ進出に参加したいと出資を決め、さらに丸山さんに声をかけられた森川さんも経営に加わったということだ。

店は2018年秋からソフトオープンしたが、グランドオープニングを迎えるまでは苦労もあった。名古屋で６年間、如水ラーメンに携わってきた前原さんにアメリカとの違いを聞いた。「まず、水が違うので、軟水にする機械を導入しました。さらにだしがしっかりと出る鶏肉を探すのに苦労しました。納得できる鶏肉を探し続けて、やっと日系の業者さん経由で巡り会うことができました」。そして、現在は安定の味にたどり着いたということだ。

また、アメリカならではのメニューがビーガンラーメン。これは名古屋にはなく、予想以上にアメリカにはビーガンが多いことを知ったことで新たに誕生した。醤油ラーメンは昆布で、味噌ラーメンは豆乳でだしを取っている。

顧客は7月時点で６割が日本人。「名古屋の本物のラーメンの味を伝えるためにやってきたので、今後はローカルの顧客の割合を増やしていきたいと思います」と３人は口を揃える。また、「アメリカに本物のラーメンを伝える」という目的を達成するには、今後のチェーン展開も視野に入っているはずだ。その点を聞くと、「全米制覇を目指してはいるが、まずはこのトーランスの店の足元をしっかりと固めたい。カラオケと隣接しているので歌った後のラーメン需要も期待しています」と丸山さん。森川さんは「豚骨ラーメン以外にもこんなにシンプルで美味しいラーメンがあるということを多くの人に知ってほしい」、前原さんは「大事に作っているこだわりのラーメンを味わってほしい」と、それぞれの如水にかける熱い思いを話してくれた。

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Josui Ramen
2212 Artesia Blvd
Torrance, CA 90504

(310) 505-5124

Wednesday-Monday
11:30am-2:00pm, 5:30pm-9:30pm

Closed Tuesdays

By Kosuke Kuji

A documentary film featuring three female Japanese sake brewers, “KAMPAI! For the Love of Sake” kicked off in Tokyo in April 2019.

Three female sake brewers star in this documentary film: Miho Imada, CEO and Master Sake Brewer of Imada Sake Brewery Co., Ltd., producing “Fukucho” in Hiroshima prefecture; Marie Chiba, the charismatic manager of sake bar “GEM by moto” in the Ebisu district of Tokyo, also active as an author of books on pairing sake; and lastly, Rebekah Wilson-Lye, a New Zealand national and sake consultant of JAPAN CRAFT SAKE COMPANY owned by Hidetoshi Nakada, former professional Japanese soccer player.

The first film in which I also starred in, “KAMPAI! For the Love of Sake,” directed by Mirai Konishi based in Los Angeles, depicted the historic background of Japanese sake production that traditionally banned women from participation, but since evolved to include female brewers and Master Sake Brewers in many breweries today, actively involved in producing quality sake, along with many women visible in promoting and serving customers today. This documentary centers around three female pioneers leading Japanese sake production today.
The cast of participating brewers include renowned names, such as members of the Hiroshima Sake Makers Association, Owner Tadayoshi Onishi of “Jikon” in Mie prefecture, member brewers of “Next 5” leading Akita prefecture, and many other renowned brewers.

With the goal to brew sake more freely and enjoyably, this film tells the stories of three women captivated by the allure of Japanese sake, and the latest in the Japanese sake production industry. This film will likely be screened in the U.S. in the future, so please attend a screening if possible.


「映画カンパイ　その２」

2019年4月、東京を皮切りに上映がスタートした日本酒のドキュメンタリー映画「カンパイー日本酒に恋する女たち」。

この映画は、主人公は3人の女性になります。広島県で「富久長」を醸す今田酒造本店の代表取締役で杜氏の今田美穂さん、東京恵比寿の日本酒バー「GEM by moto」のカリスマ店長で、ペアリングの本なども執筆する岩手出身の千葉麻里絵さん、そして、ニュージーランド出身でサッカー元日本代表の中田英寿さんが率いるJAPAN CRAFT SAKE COMPANY所属で、日本酒コンサルタントのレベッカ・ウィルソンライさん。

3人の女性が3人とも個性的で、映画の中ではとてもキラキラしています。

私も主演している最初の作品「カンパイー世界が恋する日本酒」を手掛けた、ロサンゼルス在住の小西未来監督によるこの作品は、かつては酒蔵は女人禁制と言われており、女性が酒造りにかかわることは許されなかったが、近年日本酒の世界が日々進化を続ける中で今では蔵元や杜氏が女性で積極的に努力している蔵も多く、さらにはPRや接客などにも女性の力が目覚ましく増えています。そんな中で日本酒の世界で活躍する三人の先駆者に迫るドキュメンタリーです。
共演する蔵元も豪華で、広島県酒造組合の皆さん、三重県の「而今」の大西唯克社長、秋田県を引っ張る「ネクスト5」の蔵元など大勢の有名蔵元が出演します。

もっと自由に、もっと楽しく。この物語は日本酒に魅せられた女性たちを通して、今の日本の日本酒業界の旬を語る映画です。今後はアメリカでも上映されることもあると思うので、是非ご覧になってみてください。

By Kosuke Kuji

Los Angeles-based Mirai Konishi produced “KANPAI – For the Love of Sake” from crowdfunding, released in 2015.

After a world premiere at the San Sebastian International Film Festival, the film was also screened at the Tokyo International Film Festival, Hawaii International Film Festival, and various film festivals domestic and abroad.

Starting from Iwate prefecture in 2016, the screening started north from Hokkaido, south from Okinawa, and continued on be screened and broadcast in 13 different countries.

Shinjoro Koizumi of The Liberal Democratic Party of Japan was said to be so moved by this film, he was driven to show it to fellow congressmen in his party, realized by a screening at The Liberal Democratic Party headquarters, further selected for broadcast in international flights with Japan Air Lines (JAL), widely viewed and loved nationwide.

This film is a documentary film on three outsiders. The main character is Philip Harper, Chief Brewer of “Tamagawa Brewery” in Kyoto prefecture, the first to assume this position in the world. The other main characters are John Gautner, a sake ambassador active in the U.S.; and myself, I manage a brewery.

In the U.S., the film was screened in Los Angeles in New York.

In Los Angeles, the Consul General hosted a screening party. This film had a great impact on sake fans in Japan and worldwide.

Currently, “KANPAI – For the Love of Sake” is currently available for viewing on Netflix, and the DVD is on sale on Amazon.

Due to the overwhelmingly positive review the film received, Director Konishi produced “KANPAI – For the Love of Sake 2,” and the screening started this year.


「映画カンパイ　その１」

2015年、クラウドファンディングで作成されたロサンゼルス在住の小西未来監督の作品「カンパイー世界が恋する日本酒」。

サンセバスチャン国際映画祭でワールドプレミアを迎え、その後も東京国際映画祭、ハワイ国際映画祭など国内外数々の映画祭で上映されました。

2016年、岩手県を皮切りに、北は北海道から南は沖縄まで全国の映画館で上映がスタート、その後海外でも13か国で上映、配信が行われました。

自民党の小泉進次郎議員がこの映画に感激して、自民党の国会議員にこの映画を見せなければいけない、と奮起して、自民党本部での上映会も開催され、さらには、日本航空（JAL）が国際線の機内上映映画にも選んでくれて、日本中、そして世界中の方々に愛していただいたのが映画カンパイです。

この映画は3人のアウトサイダーな男達のドキュメンタリー。主人公は世界初の外国人杜氏である京都「玉川」の杜氏フィリップハーパー、酒伝道師としてアメリカで活躍するジョンゴントナー、そして蔵元の私です。

アメリカでもロサンゼルスとニューヨークで上映されました。

ロサンゼルスでは日本総領事館主催の上映記念パーティーまで行われ、日本、そして世界の日本酒好きに大きな影響を与えました。

今現在は、カンパイー世界が恋する日本酒はネットフリックスでの配信や、アマゾンでのDVD販売をしています。

この映画が大きな反響を受けた事から、小西未来監督は続編の「カンパイ２」の制作に着手して、見事2019年、「カンパイー日本酒に恋する女たち」が上映スタートになりました。

By Yuji Matsumoto

I had an opportunity to hold a Japanese sake seminar at The Japan Foundation, Los Angeles.

What they wanted to know most was the difference between cold and hot sake, brewing process, ingredients and health-related questions, mostly about “How to select your preferred sake.” What is the basis of selecting sake, and where are the descriptions of the sake listed? There were many unknown factors involved in selecting sake. Since over ten years ago, I’ve published the need to standardize labels for Japanese sake, and to display necessary information to the Japanese sake industry. However, I’m disappointed to see that we still haven’t moved forward with these efforts.

For example, the appropriate range of temperature to enjoy sake, compatible cuisines, and to incorporate simple flavors and aromas. The reason why we still don’t see these subjects addressed within the industry is because those affiliated with Japanese sake (including within the U.S.) knows nothing about the happenings on site.The sales of Japanese sake in Japan vs. U.S. is approximately 2% on average, so there’s no motivation. However, it would make sense to try and standardize the labels to ease understanding for consumers.


求められているラベルの統一化

先日、国際交流基金ロサンゼルス日本文化センターにおいて日本酒のセミナーをする機会に恵まれた。

彼らが一番知りたいことは、冷酒と熱燗の違い、造り、原料や健康面についても質問があったが、「どうやって自分の好きなタイプの酒を選んだらいいか」ということに尽きた。何を基準に選択するか、味や香りのプロフィールはどこに書いてあるのか？である。十数年以来、私は日本酒のラベルの統一化や必要情報の表示を日本酒業界に伝えてきたが、一向にこの方向に向かっていないのは至極残念なことである。たとえば、表ラベルに適正飲酒温度帯、相性のよい食べ物、簡単な味と香りを入れることである。未だに業界全体として一切これらのことが話題にでていないのは、おそらく日本酒に携わる（米国内も含め）人間が、まったく現場のことを知らないからであろう。また、日本酒の業界そのものもそこまで苦労をして真剣に日本酒を販売しようという気がないことがよく伺える。もちろん、日本酒の販売金額は、日本と米国を比べたら平均でおそらく2％にも達していないから無理もないのだが、もう少し消費者フレンドリーな統一ラベルを検討していただきたいものである。


備受渴求的標籤統一化

我很榮幸有機會在國際交流基金洛杉磯日本文化中心舉辦清酒研討會。

與會者最想知道的是冷酒和熱燗之間的區別；還詢問有關製作，原料和健康方面的問題。但歸根究柢的問題就是「我應該如何選擇我最喜歡的酒類？」。應該以甚麼標準作出選擇？有關味道和香味的資料在哪裡有提及？問題會是以上兩項。十多年來，我向清酒業界表達了清酒標籤統一化和展示必要信息的訴求；但非常遺憾業界並沒有朝此方向邁進。例如，在正面標籤上填上適當的飲用溫度範圍，與其配合的食物，簡單描述味道和香味。整個行業至今還沒有談到這些事情的原因，恐怕是因為清酒業界的人（包括在美國的人）根本不了解市場的實際情況。

日本與美國相比，清酒銷售額以平均而言可能連2％亦不及，故以上情況可能為無可奈何；但亦希望能夠考慮出對消費者更為友善的統一標籤。


라벨 통일에 대한 요구
국제교류기금 로스앤젤레스 일본문화센터에서 니혼슈에 관한 세미나를 열 기회가 있었습니다.

그들이 가장 알고 싶어 하는 것은 차가운 술과 뜨겁게 데운 술의 차이, 제조 방법, 원료나 건강적인 측면 등에 대한 질문이 있었지만, "자신이 좋아하는 타입의 술을 어떻게 선택하면 좋은가"라는 질문이 많았습니다. 즉, 무엇을 기준으로 선택하는지, 맛이나 향에 관한 프로필은 어디에 쓰여 있는지에 관한 질문입니다. 수십 년 동안 니혼슈의 라벨 통일화와 정보 표시의 필요성을 니혼슈 업계에 전달해 왔지만 전혀 진척되지 않고 있는 현실이 매우 유감스럽습니다. 예를 들어, 표시 라벨에 적정 음주 온도의 범위, 궁합이 잘 맞는 음식, 간단한 맛과 향을 표기하는 것입니다. 아직도 업계 전반에 걸쳐 이러한 움직임이 전혀 보이지 않는 이유는, 아마도 니혼슈와 관련된(미국도 포함) 사람들이 현장을 전혀 모르기 때문일 것입니다.

일본과 미국의 니혼슈 판매 금액을 비교하면 평균 약 2%에도 미치지 못하기 때문에 무리일 수도 있지만, 좀 더 소비자 친화적인 통일된 라벨을 검토해 주었으면 합니다.

By Aya Ota

“Momofuku Group” has always been drawing people’s attention with its innovative concept. Since its opening of “Momofuku Noodle Bar” in 2004 in the East Village District by David Chung, a chef and restaurant entrepreneur, the Group has been growing at an amazing speed. It has developed about 15 various restaurants from casual to high-end, mainly in New York, including Washington D.C., Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Sydney, Australia, and Toronto, Canada. It has also developed fast food chains: “Fuku” of fried chicken sandwiches, and “Milk Bar” of sweets & bakery.

David Chung has won various awards which include the Best Chef Award by James Beard Foundation. He is a star chef who is often featured in all kinds of media, who was also selected by Esquire magazine as one of “the most influential people of the 21st Century” along with the politician, Hillary Clinton, the Facebook CEO, Mark Zuckerberg, etc.

“Noodle Bar”, the leader of this Group’s development, has always been creating a line of waiting people since its 2004 opening, and the second NY location at Columbus Circle which opened at the end of last year after a long wait, is also creating a new line.

“Noodle Bar” is managed by Tony Kim, Executive Chef. He has a unique background. He used to be in the marketing industry, but his passion for cooking made him go into the restaurant industry. After building a career in California in a few restaurant groups, he moved to New York in 2011, and joined “Momofuku Group” in 2013.

Both the founder, David, and Tony are second-generation Korean Americans. Not to mention they have been influenced by Korean home cooking, David has been trained in Japan as well. So, not only by Japanese food ingredients, they have also been greatly influenced by Japanese cooking methods and philosophy. Their bacon dashi has the characteristics of umami of bonito flakes and smoky fragrance. They are firm about the idea of “creating no waste of food, and use the fat from grilling chicken for soup and oil to make fried chicken. Tony has used various Japanese food ingredients such as miso and soy sauce to create new tastes. He said that he always tries to combine ingredients without overpowering their originalities.

Although the name is Noodle Bar, there are only 5 noodle dishes, and the rest is offered by category like Chinese buns (Bread), small plates, vegetables, and large plates. It appears that the number of menu items is not very many, but they also offer “today’s special”, and a daily-changing signature menu item in which plenty of seasonal local ingredients are used to keep repeat customers interested. Since New York is the type of place where a wide variety of customers reside, they pay attention to give a good balance in their menu selection. As for food ingredients, they use a rich variety of meat, fish, and vegetables, and also a wide variety for flavoring from spicy to mild. This Group established “Momofuku Culinary Lab” in 2010. Using traditional Japanese and Korean cooking methods, they have developed seasonings and furikake toppings that suit the preferences of Americans, and use them in the restaurant. The Chinese buns are also all particularly made by hand.

Inside of the restaurant, a kitchen counter is installed on one side, and a bar counter on the other side to give the feeling of presence, and to accommodate all customers in all situations, there are tables and chairs in the center.

In 2020, another Noodle Bar is supposed to open in Los Angeles. They keep opening restaurants of new business models in New York and Las Vegas as well. I cannot keep my eyes off of these current trends.


ニューヨークに新たな行列を作り出す

　常に斬新なコンセプトで注目を浴び続ける『モモフク・グループ』。シェフでレストラン実業家のデイヴィッド・チャン氏が、2004年にイーストヴィレッジ地区に『モモフク・ヌードル・バー』を開店以来、破竹の勢いで成長を続け、現在ニューヨークを中心に、ワシントンD.C.、ラスベガス、ロサンゼルス、オーストラリア・シドニー、カナダ・トロントに、カジュアルな店から高級店まで約15店舗展開する。また、フライドチキン・サンドイッチのファストフード店『Fuku』、スイーツ＆ベーカリーの『Milk Bar』をチェーン展開している。

デイヴィッド・チャン氏はジェイムス・ビアード財団のベストシェフ賞をはじめ数々の賞を受賞、エスクァイア誌から「21世紀で最も影響力のある75人」の一人として、政治家のヒラリー・クリントン、フェイスブックCEOのマーク・ザッカーバーグらとともに選出されるなど、メディアに引っ張りだこのスターシェフだ。

同グループを代表する『ヌードル・バー』は2004年開店以来行列の絶えない店だが、ニューヨークで2店舗目となるコロンバス・サークル店を昨年暮れに満を持して開店、新たな行列を作り出している。

『ヌードル・バー』を統括するのは料理長トニー・キム。同氏は、かつてマーケティング業界に従事していたが、料理への情熱が高じ飲食業界に飛び込んだというユニークな経歴を持つ。カリフォルニア州でいくつかのレストラングループで経験を積んだ後、2011年にニューヨークへ移り、2013年から『モモフク・グループ』に加わった。

創業者のデイヴィッド氏もトニー氏も共に韓国系米国人2世。韓国家庭料理の影響を受けているのはもちろんだが、デイヴィッド氏が日本で料理修業をした経験があることから、日本食材だけでなく、日本の調理法や哲学からも大いに影響を受けている。同店の特徴であるベーコン出汁は鰹節が持つ旨味や燻製香がヒントだ。「食材を無駄にしない」という考え方も徹底し、鶏肉をグリルしたときに出る脂をスープやフライドチキンの揚げ油として活用する。トニー氏は、味噌や醤油など、さまざまな日本食材を使い、新しい味を作り出しているが、素材本来の持ち味を打ち消すことなく組み合わせるよう心がけていると言う。

ヌードル・バーと言いつつも、麺類は5種類のみで、中華風バンズ、小皿、野菜、大皿というカテゴリで提供。一見メニュー数は少なく見えるかもしれないが、「今日のおすすめ」を提供するほか、季節や地元の食材をふんだんに活用し定番メニューも毎日差し替えるので、何度行っても飽きることがない。ニューヨークという場所柄、顧客層が幅広いため、メニュー内容はバランスを重視。食材は肉・魚・野菜と豊富に揃え、味付けもスパイシーからマイルドなものまで変化をつける。同グループは、2010年に『モモフク料理研究所』を設立。日本や韓国の伝統的な調理法を活用し、米国人の嗜好に合うような調味料やふりかけを開発し、店内で使用している。中華バンズもすべて手作りというこだわりだ。
内装は、キッチンカウンターとバーカウンターを両サイドに設置し、臨場感を演出。中央にはテーブル席があり、あらゆる顧客層やシチュエーションに対応する。

2020年にはロサンゼルスにも『ヌードル・バー』を開店予定。ニューヨークやラスベガスでも新業態での開店が続くので、最新動向から目が離せない。

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Momofuku Noodle Bar
The Shops at Columbus Circle
10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019

https://momofuku.com/

Lunch - Daily 11:30 am – 4 pm
Dinner - Daily 5 pm – 10:30 pm
The bar remains open from 4 – 5 pm

By Keiko Fukuda

I heard that VegiLicious is an organic vegan restaurant as you can imagine from its name, and not only that, it is a Japanese restaurant. How could I resist going there? The restaurant is located in Huntington Beach, a surfers’ town. It stands quietly in a corner of a mall, about a 10 minute drive towards the ocean from the 405 Freeway. It is surrounded by relaxed residential streets away from busy streets.

I arrived at the restaurant at 2:30 in the afternoon after the peak lunch time. I saw 2 groups of people eating enjoyably. The lady who was cheerfully talking to the customers as she was serving, was Atsuko Nakao, and the gentleman who came out and talked frankly to the customers who were having desserts, was Akira Nakao. They are the Japanese married couple who run this hidden popular restaurant, and also the only working staff who does everything for the restaurant.
First, I tried their popular menu item, the Kobe BBQ Bowl. I came up with a simple question. Why Kobe beef, at a vegan restaurant? I understood after they explained to me that the meat was made from soybeans which had been developed for vegans after a series of trial and errors, and made almost as identical to the real thin-sliced grilled beef. Even though I knew that it was made with soybeans, I felt the meaty texture in my mouth. It went very well with the sweet and spicy sauce and the brown rice underneath, which gave me quite a bit of satisfaction. Not only that, the fact that “it is not meat” gave me no sense of guilt that I usually feel. The salad dressing is also house-made. They must be very passionate about the business for being so particular about organic ingredients, making everything in-house, and running the place only by themselves.

The owner, Akira-san, is a 2-time adult-class all-Japan wrestling champion. After coming to the US, he had worked at 2 Japanese restaurants as a manager before he opened this restaurant. While working, he gradually developed a desire to run his own organic vegan restaurant. I asked him the reason. He said, “While I was managing my own health as a wrestler, I actually felt myself getting over the exhaustion faster, and healthier by eating more pork than beef, more chicken than pork, more fish than chicken, and even more soybean products such as tofu and natto than fish as my main diet.” He said that he came to his senses to this eating style which he currently offers, through his own experiences.

After taking 7months to find the property, and another 10 months to build, VegiLicious finally opened in February of 2013. When you look at the menu, you see a lot of choices, and a rich variety of items; 3 rice bowl dishes including the Kobe BBQ, as many as 7 kinds of curry dishes, 1 ramen bowl, 5 combination plates, soups, salads, appetizers, sandwiches, and desserts. You can also purchase their house-made salad dressing at the store section.

Because of the way their dishes are prepared with organic-only ingredients and no additives, which takes time and labor, this married couple are the only ones working for this restaurant in order to save labor costs. “Everything, from buying, cooking, and serving, to cleaning is done by us only,” says Akira-san. Even so, the couple wears a cheerful smile, and doesn’t show any stress, maybe because of their healthy food and lifestyle they lead, and offering it to their customers. It seems like they are living in a spiral of maintaining health by the power of food despite busy work, providing satisfaction to the customers by the good food, and getting even busier. I got a strong impression that only because they do everything by themselves, their mission-like desire, to “Make people healthy and happy with organic vegan cooking”, is being conveyed directly to their customers, and the number of their fans is growing.

I asked how many customers they were attracting because of that thinking, and how many rotations they have for dinner time sales. They said, “It depends. Some spend only 15 minutes to finish, and others, like a big group for instance, could take 2 to 3 hours to enjoy the whole experience.” You can easily guess how popular they are by knowing that the wait time could be as long as 30 minutes in the waiting line to get in.


住宅街の隠れた「オーガニックビーガン」人気店

VegiLicious、店名から想像できるようにオーガニックビーガン料理の店。しかも日本食レストランと聞けば行ってみないわけにはいかない。その店があるのはサーファーの街、ハンティントンビーチ。フリーウェイの405号線を降りて延々10分ほど海の方に進んだモールの一角にひっそりと佇む。周囲は、繁華街とは程遠く、のんびりした雰囲気漂う住宅街だ。

店に到着したのはランチタイムのピークを過ぎた午後２時半。店内では食事を楽しむ２組のグループの姿があった。サーバーを務めながら明るく客に声をかける女性は中尾亜津子さん。そして、デザートを食べている客のテーブルに現れ、気さくに話しかける男性が中尾昭さん。この店は日本人夫婦が二人だけで切り盛りしている、隠れた人気店なのだ。

まずは、人気メニューの神戸BBQボウルをいただいた。ビーガンなのに神戸BBQとは一体？と素朴な疑問が浮かぶが、ビーガン向けに開発された大豆製の代替肉を、工夫に工夫を重ねて薄切りの焼肉そっくりに仕上げていると聞いて納得。大豆とわかって口に運んでもしっかりとした食べ応えがあり、また甘辛いソースと下に敷かれたブラウンライスとの相性も抜群で満足度は高い。さらに「肉にあらず」という事実のおかげで、普段感じる罪悪感とも無縁だ。サラダのドレッシングも手作り。オーガニックな食材にこだわり、手作りにこだわり、さらに夫婦二人だけで店を回していくとなると、相当な熱意がなければやっていけないに違いない。

オーナーの昭さんは、日本で二度の全国大会優勝経験がある社会人レスリングのチャンピオン。アメリカに渡った後、今の店を持つまでに、ロサンゼルス近辺の２軒の日本食レストランのマネージャーを務めた。その中で次第にオーガニックビーガンの店を自分で経営したいという気持ちが募ってきたのだという。その理由を聞くと、「レスリング選手として自分の健康を管理していくうえで、牛肉よりも豚肉、豚より鶏肉、鶏より魚、さらに魚よりも豆腐や納豆といった大豆食品を食生活の中心に据えることで、疲れの回復が早く、体調が良くなっていくことを実感したのです」と、自らの実体験から今手掛けている食のスタイルに目覚めたのだと教えてくれた。

そして、物件探しに７カ月、工事に10カ月かけて、2013年２月、VegiLicousはようやく開店にこぎつけた。同店で出されているメニューに目をやると、神戸BBQボウルをはじめとする丼３種、カレーは実に７種、ラーメンが１種、コンビネーションミールが５種、そのほかにもスープ、サラダ、アペタイザーからサンドイッチ、デザートまで選択肢は豊富にある。さらに手作りドレッシングは店頭で販売されている。

オーガニック食材と添加物を使用しないという手間と時間がかかる調理法のため、人件費を抑える目的で前述のように店で働くのは夫婦のみ。「仕入れから調理、接客から掃除に至るまで全部私たち二人でやっています」と昭さんは語る。それでも自らが実践し、客にも提供する健康的な食生活のおかげなのか、夫婦は明るい笑顔を見せ、疲れなどは感じさせない。忙しく働いても食の力で健康を維持し、その料理で顧客に満足感を与え、さらに忙しくなり、というスパイラルの中で生活しているようだ。そして、二人だけで何もかもを手がけているからこそ、彼らの「オーガニックビーガン料理で人を健康にして、幸せにしたい」という使命感にも似た思いは、直接的に顧客へと届き、店のファンを増やしているのだという印象を強く受けた。

その結果、どれだけの客を呼び込んでいるのか？店の売り上げの代わりにディナータイムは一体何回転するのかと聞いたが、「食べたいものだけを食べて15分で帰る人もいるし、２、３時間、食事を楽しむグループもいるので一概に言えません」とのことだった。それでも、空席待ちに30分の列ができると聞けば、人気のほどは推して知るべし、だろう。

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VegiLicious
16821 Algonquin St., #103, Huntington Beach, CA
(714)377-3928

https://www.vegilicious-us.com

Wednesday-Monday
11:45am-3:00pm, 5:30pm-9:00pm

Closed Tuesdays

By Yuji Matsumoto

While sparkling wine and flavored wine is no doubt popular, another surprisingly popular beverage is shochu (distilled liquor).

Shochu on-the-rocks, mixed with lemon soda or with Calpis soda are also popular among American consumers.

From the restaurant side’s perspective, especially in California, the greatest advantage of selling shochu is that despite being a distilled liquor, as long as the alcohol level is less than 24 percent, shochu can still be sold with a Beer & Wine license. Surprisingly however, few restaurants are effectively incorporating shochu into their alcohol list. Judging from the response from customer, it seems as if more participants were interested in purchasing shochu than Japanese sake, which means there are still great sales opportunities for shochu.

Even without a bartender, shochu highball can be easily prepared by mixing shochu with lemon juice, grape juice, lychee juice and carbonated water, with high profit rate. There is no difficult explanation involved other than “Japanese vodka” for easy understanding and acceptance by American consumers.

Also, maritinis, mojitos, Bloody Mary, and various other vodka and tequila-based cocktails can be made with shochu. Therefore, I look forward to more American consumers trying shochu.

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焼酎の可能性

発泡酒やフレイバー酒は言うまでもなく人気だが、意外にも焼酎が好評だ。

焼酎はロックやレモン割り、カルピス割りどれもアメリカ人にうける。

レストラン側から見ると、特にカリフォルニア州では、蒸留酒にもかかわらずアルコール24％以下ならBeer & Wineライセンスでも販売できるのが最大のメリットだ。しかし、現場をみるとこの焼酎を有効的に活用しているレストランは意外と少ない。お客の反応からみると日本酒を買って帰る人より焼酎を購入したい人が多いということは、販促によってまだ伸びる可能性があるということだ。

バーテンダーがいなくても、レモンジュース、グレープジュース、ライチジュースと炭酸で簡単に利益率の高いカクテル（酎ハイ）ができる。

何も焼酎を難しく説明することはなく、単に“Japanese Vodka”と言えば簡単に理解され、アメリカ人に受け入れられる。

このほかにマティーニやモヒト、さらには、Bloody Maryなどウォッカ やテキーラで作れるほとんどのカクテルが焼酎で出来るのでぜひ試されたい。

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日本燒酒的可能性

不言而喻，發泡酒和加香酒很受歡迎；但令人驚訝的是，日本燒酒亦廣獲好評。
加冰塊、檸檬或可爾必思的日本燒酒均獲美國人好評。

以餐廳的角度而言——特別是在加利福尼亞州——最大的優勢是在於儘管其歸屬於蒸餾酒；但因其酒精成分只有24%或以下，故只須持有啤酒及葡萄酒許可證，即可販賣之。然而感到意外的是，去到當地時會發現很少餐館能夠有效地利用這些日本燒酒。從客戶的反應來看，與購買日本酒回家的人比較，更多人希望購買日本燒酒；所以根據促銷活動的展開，日本燒酒的銷售量仍大有可能增加。

即使沒有調酒師，一樣可以利用檸檬汁，葡萄汁，荔枝汁和碳酸輕鬆製作高利潤的雞尾酒（日式highball，即日本燒酒摻汽水）。

無須複雜艱難地解釋何謂日本燒酒；只需簡單地說「日本伏特加」，即可簡單容易獲美國人理解和接受。

除此之外，大多數可以用伏特加和龍舌蘭酒製作的雞尾酒——如馬丁尼和莫希托，以及血腥瑪麗等——都可以用日本燒酒製作，請務必一試。

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소주의 가능성

발포주와 플레이버주는 늘 인기를 끌고 있는데 의외로 소주도 좋은 평가를 받고 있습니다.

소주는 온더록이나 레몬와리, 칼피스와리 모두 미국 사람들에게 인기가 있다.

레스토랑 입장에서 보면, 특히 캘리포니아주에서는, 증류주라도 알코올이 24% 이하면 Beer & Wine 라이센스로도 판매할 수 있어 큰 메리트가 있습니다. 그러나 실제 이 소주를 효과적으로 활용하는 레스토랑은 의외로 적습니다. 고객의 반응을 보면 니혼슈를 사가는 사람보다 소주를 구입하려는 사람이 많은데, 판촉만 제대로 한다면 아직도 성장 가능성이 있다고 볼 수 있습니다.

바텐더가 없어도 레몬주스, 포도주스, 리치주스와 탄산으로 높은 마진의 칵테일 (츄하이)을 간단히 만들 수 있습니다.

소주를 어렵게 설명하지 말고 간단히 "Japanese Vodka" 라고 소개하면 미국 사람들도 쉽게 이해하고 받아들일 수 있습니다.

이것 말고도 마티니나 모히토, Bloody Mary 같은 보드카나 데킬라로 만드는 대부분의 칵테일도 소주로 만들 수 있으니 꼭 시도해보시기 바랍니다.

By Aya Ota

“ZAUO”, where you can have the fish you have just caught cooked, and eat right there----a restaurant with such an innovative concept which is unprecedented in New York, is the talk of the town now.

First, the customer would decide which fish he or she wants to catch. In the restaurant, there are 3 fish tanks, and about 10 different kinds of live seafood items, which alternate every season, are kept there, and consist of rainbow trout, striped-bass, fluke, flounder, lobster, Dungeness crab, abalone, etc. Depending on the kind of fish, the tools and methods of catching differ. Staff called “Fish Attendants” would help you so you don’t need to worry. Once you catch your aimed item, the floor staff cheers for you by hitting a drum. After that, you choose the cooking method of your choice: salt grilled, tempura, simmered in soy sauce, sake-steamed, etc. Half & Half, in which a piece of fish is divided into 2 halves, and one half is used for shabu shabu, and the other half is salt grilled, etc., is especially popular. It makes you feel really special that you eat what you just caught which is cooked immediately while it is still fresh. There are additional services such as making miso soup with the fish head and bones, making crunchy senbei of fried fluke or flounder bones, etc. You can taste your caught item in its entirety without wasting any part.

Besides the above-mentioned fishing menu, for which the fished items are cooked, they offer a rich variety of a-la-carte menu items such as sushi, sashimi, seafood bowl, salad, and miso soup. You can start fishing right away, or you can enjoy sake and appetizers first, and then challenge yourself to fish. The restaurant has 3 stories. The first floor has lively seating near large fish tanks, private room like spaces, and a bar counter. You can watch fish swimming underneath from the mezzanine floor, or the 2nd floor interior gives you the sense of being on a boat, Whether you are a couple, part of a group, or by yourself, you can enjoy various ambiences by going to different floors. Customers often use this place for family outings with children or for birthday parties. From this June, they have just started using the 3rd floor. It is a quiet space very different from the 1st and 2nd floor, and omakase sushi is served there.

I can imagine that in order to realize such an unprecedented concept, they must have experienced a lot of difficulties in building construction and application for permits, etc., on top of gaining the understanding and cooperation of the involved parties. However, “I never really thought that I was struggling,” says Mr. Takuya Takahashi, President of Zauo Inc. cheerfully. He is also the Vice President of Harbor House Inc. (based in Fukuoka), which has developed 13 “ZAUO”s in Japan. This company was founded in1986, and was originally operated as an apparel business dealing with novelty products and uniforms. They expanded their business, and have developed a total of 20 restaurants besides “ZAUO”s, which include izakaya and teishoku chains. In 2014, when he was visiting New York with his brother, the President of Harbor House Inc., he felt the strong urge to do something in this town full of diversity. Back then, he was doing the market research and looking for locations flexibly without focusing on a particular business model. Then, he decided to develop the “ZAUO” concept, which has a strong, unique characteristic that differs from others. Sometimes, the experience and knowledge he gained from “ZAUO”, Japan, was useful, but some things were totally different in the US. Many customers come for the fishing experience without recognizing the restaurant as a Japanese restaurant, and taste Japanese food or sake for the first time. Some want rice as a side menu item of the western cuisine, so they started to offer it for free. In order to accommodate diversified preferences, restricted diets, and allergies, they offer meats, and vegetarian dishes as well. For those who are not accustomed to eating whole fish, they serve it with no skin and bones to attentively respond to the detailed needs. Moreover, they created a position called “Fish Attendant”, which exists only at this restaurant, and educate the staff for it so they can become confident and take joy in this unique position. Mr. Takahashi himself, who has the determining rights, takes the lead on site, so flexibility and power of actuation is excellent.

“I would like to produce joyfulness, focusing on the importance of sense of unity among customers and staff,” says Mr. Takahashi. His quote also holds a wish for having people understand not only the joys of eating something they caught themselves, but also conveying the understanding of expressing gratitude for each precious life to be taken and consumed with respect.


これまでニューヨークになかった革新的なコンセプト
自分で釣った魚を食べられる『ZAUO』

「自分で釣った魚をその場で調理してもらう」…これまでニューヨークには存在しなかった斬新なコンセプトの店、『ざうお』が話題だ。

客は来店するとまず、どの魚介類を釣りたいか決める。店内には3カ所のいけすがあり、ニジマス、シマスズキ、ひらめ、かれい、ロブスター、ダンジネスクラブ、あわびなど、季節ごとに変わるが常時約10種類の魚介類がいる。種類によって釣り具や捕獲方法が異なるが、「フィッシュ・アテンダント」と呼ばれる店員が助けてくれるので安心だ。お目当ての魚介類を釣り上げると、店員が太鼓を叩いて盛り上げてくれる。その後、塩焼き、天ぷら、煮付け、酒蒸しなど、好みの調理方法を選んで料理してもらう。特に、一匹の魚を半身はしゃぶしゃぶ、半身は塩焼き…という具合に、二通りに調理してもらう「ハーフ＆ハーフ」が人気。自ら捕獲した魚介類を、新鮮なまま調理してもらって食べる醍醐味は格別だ。頭部と骨を味噌汁にしたり、ひらめやかれいの骨を揚げて骨せんべいにしたり…という追加サービスもあり、釣果を無駄なく丸ごと味わい尽くすことができる。

釣った魚介類を調理してもらうフィッシング・メニュー以外にも、寿司や刺身、海鮮丼、サラダ、味噌汁など、アラカルト・メニューも豊富に用意されている。来店してすぐに釣り始めてもいいし、お酒や前菜を少し楽しんでから釣りに挑戦してもいい。店は3階建てのビル全体を活用した構造で、1階には、大型のいけすが近い賑やかな席、個室風の席、バーカウンターがある。足下に泳ぐ魚を眺められる中2階、実際に乗船しているような臨場感ある内装の2階…カップルでも団体でも一人でも、フロアや席を変えて異なる雰囲気を味わえる。子供連れの家族層や誕生会などに利用されることも多いという。6月からは3階での営業を開始し、1〜2階とは全く異なる閑静な空間で、おまかせ寿司を提供。プライベートイベントにも対応可能な空間も用意している。

これまでに例のない概念を実現するには、関係者の理解や協力を得ることはもちろん、建設工事や許認可申請など多くの障害があっただろう。しかし、「あまり苦労していると感じたことはない」と明るい笑顔で話す『ZAUO INC.』社長の高橋拓也氏氏。日本で『釣船茶屋ざうお』を13店舗を展開する『株式会社ハーバーハウス』（本社:福岡県）の副社長でもある。1986年創業の同社は、もともとノベルティ商品やユニフォームなどのアパレル業からスタートしたが、事業を拡大し、『ざうお』以外でも居酒屋や定食屋など複数の業態を含め約20店舗を展開する。2014年に、高橋氏が社長である兄と、市場調査を目的にニューヨークを訪れていたときに「多様性あふれるこの街で何かやりたい」と直観。当初は業態を絞り込むことなく柔軟に調査や物件探しを進めていたが、他と差別化できる強烈な個性を持つ『ざうお』を展開しようと決断した。日本の『ざうお』での経験や知識が役立つこともあれば、全く異なることもあった。釣りをきっかけに、同店を日本食店と認識せずに来店する客も多いため、初めて日本食や日本酒を口にする人もいる。西洋料理のサイドメニューのようにご飯を要求する客もいて無料提供を開始した。多様な嗜好性、食事制限やアレルギーに対応するべく肉やベジタリアン料理も提供する。丸ごとの魚を食べ慣れない客には骨や皮を外してあげるなど、細かい要望にも丁寧に対応する。また、「フィッシュ・アテンダント」という他店にない職種に自信と喜びを感じられるよう教育をしているという。決裁権ある高橋氏本人が現場指揮を執っているため、柔軟性と行動力が抜群だ。

「お客様やスタッフとの一体感を大事に、楽しさを演出したい」と高橋氏。自分で釣った魚を食べられる楽しみを伝えるだけでなく、感謝して命をいただくという食育の願いも込められている。

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ZAUO
152 W 24th Street
New York, NY 10011
Tel: 646-905-2274
https://zauo-newyork.com/
5:00 pm to 10:30 pm (Last Order 10:00 pm) 7days week