A restaurant that fully reflects Japanese “Bath House Culture” opens

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By Elli Sekine

In San Francisco where the restaurant business is becoming more and more diversified, a restaurant facility called “Onsen” that combines a bath house and a restaurant made its debut at the end of last year. This restaurant that took 3 years to build, replicating and beautifully modernizing the traditional Japanese bath house (sentoh), unifying a bar and a restaurant, is the talk of the town for its unique and unprecedented concept in the US.

Sunny Simmons and Caroline Smith, the owners of this restaurant facility are a married couple who love Japan very much. Among many Japanese cultures, they have been particularly charmed by hot springs and bath houses. They wanted to spread the “Japanese bath house culture”, the true essence of relaxation, to the US, and opened this facility. The place looks like nothing but a restaurant if you only look at the entrance, but as you go deeper inside the space, a new world opens up. You can use their bath or the spa facility alone, or the bar and the restaurant space also individually. In San Francisco, where there are many people who love Japanese culture, people are talking highly about the experience that they can truly enjoy through having drinks and healthy Japanese dishes after soaking themselves in the Japanese bath.

The Tenderloin District in the west of downtown, where this facility is located, used to be unstable with public safety, and had a far from trendy image, but stylish bars and restaurants are slowly coming to the area in recent years. The Onsen’s sophisticated look has definitely refreshed the surrounding scenery. The owner/architecture designer Sunny explains why this location was chosen. “This redbrick building inspired my designer spirit to create an ideal facility.” The building is deep inside, and the space was suitable for building a bath house. It is not very close to the nearby train station, and there is not much foot traffic either, but it is close enough from the downtown area, so tourists come by Uber from hotels, and many neighboring people also come. A parking lot is also available across the street. For the Americans who love to experience Japanese culture, this is an innovative facility where they can enjoy having meals while visiting a spa or a yoga studio-like place instead of going to equivalent facilities in hotels.

Its modern Japanese-flavored interior space designed by Sunny draws your attention immediately after entering. The artistic space themed with an old Japanese-style house is full of old household tools such as an old fire place and an accompanying hanging hook, a tea ceremony set, a traditional iron kettle, etc. You can sense his love of Japan. When you walk deeper into the space, you reach the entrance of the “Sentoh (bath house)”, his masterpiece.

There is a long quaint corridor, and you see a massage service room, a tatami banquet room, and a locker room on the way to the entrance door. You find comfortable cotton robes made in Japan in the locker room for you to change into to go to the bath house. The sophisticated looking elegant bath house has a high ceiling from where the sunlight comes in, a lot of green plants cascading from the walls, and is creating a beautiful contrast with the settling red bricks. You can spend very relaxed happy moments going into the steam room, dry sauna, etc. in the facility equipped with a shower room and TOTO-brand toilets.

The dining room is rather small with a counter bar, 4 tables and 16 seats, but they have an extensive drink menu with cocktails, beers, wine, and sake. For health-conscious customers, there is a rich collection of teas including konbu tea, herb tea, Pu-erh tea, matcha, and even gyokuro tea. Their new-age Japanese dishes are created by Chef George Meza who has worked at high-end Japanese restaurants like “Ame” and “Terra”. His dishes are creative using Californian ingredients while retaining the standard skills, lightly-flavored, yet satisfyingly rich. The beautiful presentation of the dishes using herbs is highly acclaimed as well.

The popular dishes include “Mushroom dumplings” ($16) cooked in dried bonito-base dashi, citrus, and oil, served with beautifully decorated local vegetables, 5 kinds of juicy yakitori with vegetable skewers, and ginger-base dashi udon noodles with spicy miso ($13). Each dish is made small in quantity suitable to accompany sake and beer drinking.

There are plenty of spas in San Francisco, and as the pioneers of Japanese style bath houses out of highend hotels, there are “Kabuki Spa”, etc. However, “Onsen” is the only place that is combined with a restaurant, and started to attract the attention of curious restaurant side clientele who don’t know what the bath house is. On the other hand, at American homes, installing of Japanese style bath tubs and washlets are slowly but steadily increasing. I hope that the Japanese bath culture that provides ultimate relaxation will spread, triggered by this debut of “Onsen” restaurant.


日本食レストランの多様化が進むサンフランシスコで、「Onsen」という名前のお風呂+レストラン施設が去年の暮れ登場した。3 年の工事期間を経てオープンした同店は、日本の伝統文化である“ 銭湯” を美しくモダンに再現し、バーとレストランを融合させた全米でも類を見ない新しいコンセプトで話題を呼んでいる。



店内に入った瞬間惹きつけられるインテリアは、サニー 氏がデザインしたモダンな和テイスト空間。古民家を意識した空間美術は、囲炉裏に付随する火棚吊り棒や茶道具、伝統的な鉄瓶などの古民具が散りばめられ、彼のセンスと日本への愛情が感じられる。奥に進むと彼のマスターピースとなる“ 銭湯” への入り口がある。そのドアまで続く風情がある長い廊下には、鍼やマッサージのサービスが受けれる個室、宴会ができる畳の個室がある。風呂場の前にあるロッカールームには、着心地の良い日本製の綿浴衣が常備され、それを着て風呂場に入る。洗練された優雅な雰囲気の風呂場は、高い天井から陽光が差し込み、緑が滝のように垂れ、落ちついた赤煉瓦とのコントラストが美しい。スティームルーム、ドライサウナの他、シャワールーム、TOTO製トイレが設備され、快適でリラックスした至福の時が過ごせる。

ダイニングルームはカウンターバー7席と 4テーブル14 席とこじんまりしている。しかしドリンクメニューは、カクテル、ビール、ワイン、酒と健康志向のメニューにはコンブ茶、ハーブティーからプアティー、抹茶、玉露までを揃えている。新感覚の日本食を担うのは、元高級日本食レストラン「Ame」や「Terra」での経験を持つシェフ、ジョージ・メザ氏。彼の独創的な料理は、基本を保ちながらもカリフォルニアの食材を用いライトなのに味がしっかりして食べ応えがある。緑のハーブを添えた美しいプレゼンも定評がある。人気は、鰹節でとった出汁に酸味やオイルを加え、地元の野菜を彩りよく添えたマッシュルームダンプリング($16)、野菜を含めた5種類のジューシーな焼き鳥、ジンジャー出汁のうどん辛味噌添え($13)など。お酒やビールに合う小さなメニュー構成だ。

サンフランシスコには現在スパ施設は多いが、高級ホテル外で、日本的な風呂施設の先駆けとして「Kabuki Spa」などがある。しかしレストランを併設する「Onsen」は随一で、風呂を知らない人もレストランを訪れた際興味を持ち始めている。「Onsen」の登場が引き金となり究極の安らぎを与える風呂文化の普及に期待したい。

466 Eddy St.
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 441-4987

Mon, Wed 3:30pm-10:00pm
Thu 11:00am-10:00pm
Fri 12:00pm-11:00pm
Sat, Sun 10:30 am-11:00pm

Wed-Thur 5:30pm-9:30pm
Fri-Sun 5:30pm-10:00pm
Mon-Tue closed
#alljapannews #Japanese #bath #onsen #sanfrancisco #spa


Timing and content of communication

By Yuji Matsumoto

No matter how good a product is, the message needs to be communicated for customers to try the product. Also, the timing and message must be appropriate to lead to sales. Therefore, let’s consider when the appropriate timing is and how to communicate the appeal of Japanese sake in a way that leads to sales.

Consider who the message is directed to
Are chefs, servers, and bartenders trained appropriately? Giving them a small sample to try will not help them adequately describe and communicate the appeal of sake to customers appropriately. Training the staff to thoroughly understand why a brand of sake tastes delicious and why customers should try it is important because a single try will not be sufficient to understand even ten percent of the appeal of a brand. Therefore, please have staff try the sake paired with the cuisine.

During a food pairing session, Junmai was the least popular, yet when served with beef, all attendees unanimously agreed that Junmai was the most complimentary. The important part is to communicate why the recommended sake is most suitable for that particular customer. Please be mindful of the sake’s compatibility with the menu selection.

Of course, a good place to start would be to have the servers change their ordering from “What can I get you to drink?” to “It’s cold outside, would you like to try some hot sake?” This suggestion alone is a major difference. Also, please mention two to three different brands of Japanese sake during the recommendation.

Speak informatively to customers in a way that generates a response like “Oh really?” For example, “How about AAA, a dry and refreshing sake from Niigata that goes great with sushi?” Or “Would you like to try BBB, a brand of sake from Akita that has body and goes great with teriyaki?” The point is to word the recommendations into easy-to-understand sales pitches that makes customers want to try the brand. Offer two to three different brands that range from reasonable to mid-range prices. Also, pay attention to the weather. On cold days, anyone would prefer a warm beverage; therefore, it’s more effective to offer hot sake over cold.





やはり、サーバーがドリンクオーダーを取る時に顧客に「お飲み物をいかがいたしましょうか?」という一言を、「寒いので美味しい熱燗(hot sake)は、いかがですか」と変えてみること。この一言で大きな違いが生まれる。また、この際、2~3銘柄お薦めの日本酒も伝えること。

#alljapannews #sake #communication #food #pairing


Sake Nation Kosher Certification Part 5

By Kosuke Kuji

Just as I mentioned in the last column, Nanbu Bijin cleared different hurdles to receive Kosher certification for 2 types of liquor of Japanese sake and plum wine to lead the way. For the announcement of our company receiving certification, the first announcement was made in the Holy Land of Judaism, Israel.

Next, focusing on Israelis living in Los Angeles and New York in the U.S., we had the Kosher announcement and tasting events. We are planning to also have these kind of tasting events in Japan in the future.

The reason why Nanbu Bijin wanted to apply for Kosher certification in the first place was the Great East Japan Earthquake and at that time we received much support from Israel including Rabi Edelhi. Also as a company that exports, sake is known to be reliable and safe, but I was thinking for a long time what might be needed to make it possibly more acceptable worldwide as a guarantee or decision making factor. During such a time I met up with this “Kosher.”

Even though Japanese sake has the image of being healthy or safe and reliable worldwide, that image is very much limited to foreigners that know Japanese or Japan very well. So you may say, to conclusively prove that abstractive healthy image was the motive to challenge this Kosher certification.

For a small country brewery like Nanbu Bijin to receive certification when the hurdle was first so high to reach the Kosher level, I believe that there will be an increase of breweries that will plan to receive Kosher certification in the Japan Sake making industry from now on.

I believe that Kosher sake will break down the wall of religion, put aside the concept of Japanese food, and be the key to make Japanese sake spread across the world with a true meaning. This might be a story slightly ahead in the future instead of right away, but I will dream that such a time will come and continue to work hard to achieve that.

酒豪大陸「コーシャ認定 その5」







#alljapannews #sake #kosher #certification


A unique place that makes you feel like going back over and over again, not just because of the good price and taste

A unique place that makes you... A unique place that makes you... A unique place that makes you... A unique place that makes you... A unique place that makes you... A unique place that makes you...
By Aya Ota

In Korean Town, where the lights are illuminated 24 hours a day, people are walking around all day long, and there are so many Korean restaurants, there is a Japanese restaurant in a corner, for which people always wait in line. This is “Izakaya Mew”. Customers start coming in as soon as the door opens at 5pm, and the place has its peaks between 6 and 8. It is so popular, and you almost always have to wait for tens of minutes to get in.

“What’s the key to your success?”
I asked. “The reasonable prices and good taste,” answered the manager, Keisuke Oku, simply. It is not easy to achieve “reasonable prices and good taste” in New York where rents are so high, and so is the competition. As I was asking deeper into the reason why they have grown to be the kind of a restaurant which can collect customers only through word of mouth with almost no advertising, but through repeated trial and error, and creating a virtuous cycle since the opening, I was finally able to see the true reason.

One reason is its location. Despite the standard for the restaurant locations in New York being on the surface of the streets, they dared to choose a basement to cut the cost in half. Naturally, the entrance is inconspicuous with a quiet sign and noren on top of the stairs that lead to downstairs. Despite the fact that it is so easy to miss even if you know the location, customers who seek “reasonable prices and good taste” form a line. There is more. They do not take reservations.

They used to take reservations at the beginning, but it tended to create empty time and tables. So they stopped taking reservations, and instead, started to take in the next group of waiting customers as soon as a table became available. This change made the operation more effective. Of course, they have to make customers wait, but customers do not complain at all. Some wait in the bar area created as a waiting space for drinking, or leave names and come back later.
They know that once they are seated, “reasonable priced and good tasting food” is waiting to be served. Among many restaurants in Korean Town which are open 24 hours a day, they close relatively early, which is another key to running the restaurant effectively.

In the menu, you find over 100 izakaya style dishes in total which are rich in ingenuity. The items are categorized as “Toriaezu”, “Tataki”, “Hot Pot”, “Deep Fried”, “Salads”, “Grilled”, “Stir Fried”, “Noodles”, “Ramen”, “Rice”, “Sushi Rolls”, “Desserts, etc. Izakaya specialty menu items are difficult to visualize just from the names, but each item is photographed to make it easy to know what it is and its volume. “Salmon Sashimi Tacos” ($7.95), a popular dish, has familiar ingredients of sauce marinated salmon and guacamole, and is well received for its unique creation as tacos. “Omu Soba” ($11.95), which is omelet wrapped yakisoba topped with dried bonito shavings and green seaweed flakes (ao-nori), is a very familiar item for Japanese people, but attracts curiosity of non-Japanese customers. Their 5 main chefs are supposed to come up with new seasonal menu items every month to make it possible to satisfy even the repeating customers by continuing to offer different dishes. Among those new items which became popular, some would be added to the standard regular menu, so the menu is kept fresh with those constant changes.

Mr. Oku continues, “I want to convey the izakaya culture of Japan.” This restaurant is highly claimed by Trip Advisor, and attracts tourists from both inside and outside the US. Since many of them are not familiar with the izakaya style, they also teach them how to enjoy izakaya. “You can place food orders any time at your own pace,” and “Dishes are meant to be shared with everyone in the group” are some of the teachings. Those who used to be unfamiliar at the beginning get soon familiarized, and can truly enjoy the unique style. In order to convey the izakaya-like ambiance, they pay close attention to create a lively atmosphere. One-of-a-kind, nostalgic interior decorations and vintage furniture helps to create such the unique ambiance, which may also be one of the reasons why they are so popular among the customers in their 20’s and 30’s.

“Izakaya Mew” has just entered its 5th year this summer. Please visit this undeniably charming restaurant which not only offers “reasonable prices and good taste”, but also makes you feel like going back over and over again.


24時間灯りがともり、人々の往来が途絶えない街、コリアンタウン。韓国料理店がひしめき、日本食店がほとんど存在しないこの地域の一角に、行列の絶えない日本食店が存在する。『Izakaya Mew』——夕方5 時の開店と共に、続々と客が入ってきて、6 〜7 時台にはピークを迎え、常に数十分待ちの行列ができる人気店だ。

「成功の秘訣は?」との問いに、「安くて美味しい」とシンプルに答えるのは、同店のマネージャー、奥慶介氏。家賃が高く競争の厳しいニューヨークで“ 安くて美味しい” を実現するのは決して簡単なことではない。さらに深く掘り下げて聞くと、開店以来、試行錯誤を重ね、好循環を作りだし、ほとんど宣伝することなしに口コミで集客できる店に成長した理由を伺い知ることができた。

まずは、立地条件。ニューヨークでは、レストランの立地は路面が常識と考えられているが、あえて地下を選んだことで、家賃を路面の約半額に抑えている。当然、入り口は目立たず、地下に降りる階段のあたりに、ひっそりと暖簾と看板があるのみ。場所を知っていてもうっかり通り過ぎてしまうほどだが、客は“ 安くて美味しい” を目指して列を作る。もう一つの特徴は予約を取らないこと。開店当初は予約を取っていたが、どうしても空き時間や空席ができてしまう。そこで、予約を取らず、席が空き次第、次の客を入れるようにオペレーションを変更した結果、効率が上がったという。当然、客を待たせることになるが、ウェイティング・スペースとなっているバーで一杯飲みながら待つ客もいれば、名前を書いて外に出て戻ってくる客もいる。いったん着席すれば “ 安くて美味しい” が待っていると分かっているので、客からのクレームは一切ない。24 時間開店している店も珍しくないこのコリアンタウンで、閉店時間が早いのも特徴的で、これも効率のよいオペレーションに一役買っている。

メニューには、創意工夫に富んだ居酒屋料理が並んでいる。「とりあえず」に始まり、「たたき」「鍋」「揚げ物」「サラダ」「焼き物」「炒め物」「麺類」「ラーメン」「ご飯物」「寿司ロール」「デザート」という具合にカテゴリ分けされており、その数は約100 種類にも及ぶ。居酒屋特有の料理にはメニュー名を見ただけでは、内容を想像しにくいものも多いが、すべてのメニューに写真が掲載されており、量や内容をイメージしやすい。人気メニューの『サーモン刺身タコス』($7.95)は、タレに漬け込んだサーモンとワカモレという馴染みの食材を使いつつも、タコスに仕上げるという異色の組み合わせが受けている。焼きそばをオムレツで包み、鰹節と青のりを振りかけた『オムソバ』($11.95)は、日本人には馴染みがある居酒屋メニューだが、非日本人には好奇心をそそる。同店では、メインのシェフ5 人が、毎月、季節感あふれる新作メニューを提案することになっており、リピーター客を飽きさせることもない。季節の新作メニューで人気が出たものは定番メニューに投入し、常にメニューの入れ替えを図っているので、常に新鮮だ。

「日本の居酒屋文化を伝えたい」と奥氏は続ける。同店は、トリップアドバイザーで高評価を得ていることから、米国内外からの観光客も多く、居酒屋を知らない客も多い。「いつでも好きなタイミングで料理を注文できること」「みんなでシェアして食べること」など、居酒屋の楽しみ方を教えている。はじめは不慣れだった客も、居酒屋独自のスタイルを満喫しているという。居酒屋らしさを伝えるためにも、活気あふれる雰囲気作りにも気を配っている。独特でノスタルジックな雰囲気を醸し出すインテリアやヴィンテージ感ある家具や調度品も特徴的だ。このお洒落さも20 〜30代を中心に人気がある理由の一つなのだろう。

この夏から5 年目に突入した『IzakayaMew』。安くて美味しいだけじゃない、何度も通いたくなる不思議な魅力のある店、ぜひ足を運んでみてほしい。

Izakaya Mew
Basement, 53 West 35th Street
New York, NY 10001
(646) 368-9384

LUNCH: Mon-Fri 12:00pm-2:20pm
DINNER: Mon-Thurs 5:00pm-10:30pm
Fri & Sat 5:00pm-11:30am
Sun 5:00pm-10:00pm
#alljapannews #izakayamew #newyork #sushi #ramen #omusoba


Legendary Sutadon bowl

Legendary Sutadon bowl Legendary Sutadon bowl Legendary Sutadon bowl Legendary Sutadon bowl
By Keiko Fukuda

The words, Sushi, Tempura, Yakitori, Ramen, and Udon are already recognized without being translated into English, and now a new Japanese food term is about to be added to such recognition by Americans in the areas where it is served. The new word is “Sutadon”. It is an abbreviation of Sutamina Donburi (energetic bowl), which is a bowl of rice topped with pork belly slices in garlic soy sauce. This dish was originated from the menu for employees of a ramen restaurant in Kunitachi-city, Tokyo, about 50 years ago. When they added this dish to the official restaurant menu, it became a big hit.

Under the first generation ownership, there was a total of only 3 restaurants; 2 in Kunitachi, and 1 in Kokubunji, but under the second generation ownership, they grew into a franchise. In 2015, their first US restaurant opened inside the Mitsuwa Marketplace in Chicago. “Our business philosophy is to provide cooking which can be the base power for Japanese and people worldwide,” says Hayato Yanagisawa, the General Manager of VEGIITA USA which is in charge of operations on the American side. On weekends, many enthusiastic American clients drive long hours to Chicago from far away to have “Sutadon”. On the other hand, the second U.S. restaurant in the Torrance Mitsuwa Marketplace is not as extremely popular as the Chicago branch, but the sales have been stable despite being in such a competitive location for Japanese restaurants because there are so many of them in the area. In the beginning, half of the Torrance branch customers were Japanese, but as the popularity grew by word of mouth, the Japanese clients now account for only 30%, and the rest, made up of other Asians and non-Asian customers, is increasing. I asked Mr. Yanagisawa the reason why the “Sutadon” is so well accepted. He said, “It’s the taste. Something they never tasted before. Another reason must be the freshness. Each bowl is created by hand after each order has received. Customers love that they can taste the freshly made food.”

About the sauce - the majority of its recipe is secret. Each branch finishes making the sauce; however only 3 people at the headquarters in Japan actually know the complete recipe. About the food ingredients for the bowl - pork and Japanese negi leeks are used in Japan, but for the U.S., Pork and onions are used with a bit of green onions for the green color. Some adjustments as such are made depending on the customers’ preferences of each region. Another equally popular item as Sutadon for the Torrance branch is the Chicken Cutlet Curry. The Japanese style curry is gaining popularity in the US nowadays, and the Sutadon restaurant curry made daily has made the third US branch in Plano, Texas, recognized as a curry restaurant on Yelp.

From now on, they aim for the developing of a multi-restaurant business by bringing their Japanese business style to the US, in which they do not limit to just Sutadon, but also include other specialty restaurants such as ramen restaurants. Mr. Yanagisawa spoke about the strategy to open more restaurants. “We will narrow down target locations where there are as few other Japanese restaurants as possible, but yet people are wanting more Japanese food. Unless we find a property of excellent conditions, it is unrealistic for the business like ours to spend high labor wage rate for low individual customer sales. In California, the competition for the Japanese food business is so tough, and the hourly wage is going higher and higher on top of it. We are also considering no-man operation such as receiving orders through computers in order to lower labor cost, but it still takes some investment capital to acquire such computer systems. Therefore, we will probably consider the option after we succeed in increasing the number of restaurants to a certain point.”

VEGIITA USA is planning to add 3 branches every year from now on in North America. You can taste the Sutadon only in Chicago, Torrance and Plano, now, but you may become able to taste it all over the United States in the future if their branches keep increasing.



初代は国立2店舗と国分寺1店舗の計3店舗を経営していたが、二代目になると看板料理となったすた丼をより多くの人々に知らせるべく、チェーン展開を開始。そして2015年にはシカゴのミツワ・マーケットプレイス内にアメリカ第1号店を開けた。「当社の企業理念は、日本、世界の人々の底力となる料理を提供すること」と語るのは、同店をアメリカで経営するVEGIITA USAのジェネラルマネージャー、柳沢隼人(ルビ:やなぎさわはやと)さんだ。







VEGIITA USAとしては。今後、年に3店舗ずつ、北米に新規店舗をオープンさせていくということだ。今はシカゴ、トーランス、プレイノでしか食べられないすた丼が、店を増やし続けることで、将来的に全米各地で味わえるようになるかもしれない。

21515 S. Western Avenue Torrance, CA 90501

7 days open
#alljapannews #Japanese #sutadon #curry #sutadonya


True Edomae-Style Sushi created by an experienced artisan

True Edomae-Style Sushi creat... True Edomae-Style Sushi creat... True Edomae-Style Sushi creat... True Edomae-Style Sushi creat...
By Eri Shimizu

In the Mission District where many restaurants loved by gourmet eaters gather, an authentic omakase-style Edomae sushi restaurant, “Sasaki”, to which many such foodies give attention, opened toward the end of last year. This restaurant that is located on Harrison Street, just off the center of the District, is a compilation of the achievements of Masaki Sasaki, an experienced sushi chef who has helped Japanese restaurants in San Francisco gain a Michelin star or a Bib Gourmand status. There is no obvious sign board in front of the
restaurant, but only a small sign near the door. However, once you open the door, a sophisticated-looking space that resembles a high-end sushi restaurant in Ginza opens up.

Mr. Sasaki has been building his career as a sushi chef for nearly 40 years in the US. After working in notable restaurants in New York, the Bay Area, etc., he opened the sushi restaurant, Maruya, in the Mission District in 2013 with a partner, and gained Michelin star status. Only a year later, he left Maruya to pursue his own ideal sushi making style, and got involved in the launching of some popular restaurants in the news such as “Omakase” and “Delage”, as a sushi consultant. This is the first restaurant owned and managed by Mr. Sasaki, where you can taste authentic non-Americanized Edomae-style sushi.

They serve only one course menu at $180. The course consists of 3 parts starting with 3 or 4 kinds of small appetizers followed by 14 pieces of Nigiri-sushi, Akadashi miso soup, and dessert. Mr. Sasaki says that he does not serve assorted sashimi, meat dishes or roll sushi. In the course which is full of his particularity, a bite-size appetizer in a ceramic bowl is served first, and then Nigiri-sushi of seasoned tuna (which is the base of the Edomae-style sushi) is served. Red-meat tuna’s umami is enhanced when marinated, and its texture is viscous and rich. For the sushi rice to match such flavor, red vinegar made with aged sake leek is used. Red vinegar that has mellower umami compared to rice vinegar is typically used for Edomae-sushi. No sugar is contained. He says that the most important thing in sushi making is not fish, but rice. It is unusual in the US that different sushi vinegar is used depending on the menu. For the middle part of the course, regular rice vinegar is used for the sushi rice for
delicate flavored whitemeat fish and shell fish toppings, and red vinegar rice is used for more fatty or silverskinned fish toppings. After the seasoned tuna, a few appetizers including steamed abalone and cooked octopus are served, and then the course moves to the main nigiri part. Generally, many restaurants tend to serve light-tasting dishes such as white-meat fish before serving more fatty and rich ingredients, but this restaurant starts with 4 pieces of rich, heavy tasting neta (fish toppings) sushi such as fatty tuna and splendid alfonsino on red-vinegared rice. Then, after the miso soup, 4 pieces of light-tasting sushi such as shell fish and vinegar-marinated red snapper are served followed by extra fatty tuna, anago, Japanese shad, and a hand-roll. To finish the course, 2 egg dishes, Japanese style thick omelet and grated shrimp omelet cake are served for you to enjoy until the very end of the course.

The characteristic of Edomaestyle sushi is its concentrated umami and taste of seafood which are created by carefully combined work of Kombu seaweed, salt, soy sauce, vinegar, etc. It is the technique developed by the wit of regular residents in Edo to cook locallycaught fish in the Tokyo Bay in the best way possible. The fish directly airtransported from Tsukiji are treated in the best way to concentrate its umami and to be preserved, and served in the most delicious state. Only 2 chefs, Sasaki and another kitchen chef, do all these preparations. It is understandable that the number of reservations are limited to 6 per day (18 on weekend with 3 rotation), dinner only. All the reservations are set at the same time, and everything starts at once when all the people have arrived. The rather low cypress wood counter designed specifically to make it easy to communicate with the customers does not have the usual refrigerated case. The ingredients are transported in a white wooden case from the kitchen in the back right at each change of the part of the course. The chef Sasaki explain each piece of
sushi they serve, and move the course smoothly in perfect harmony.

Sasaki’s aesthetic value is also reflected on the plates and bowls, and interior decorations. The plates and bowls are made by Mr. Yamanaka, Sasaki’s acquainted Buddhist temple priest in Odawara. Mr. Yamanaka’s creations are used at some San Franciscan Michelin-starred restaurants including Saison, Benu, and Manresa. Blackcolor plates are used for sushi so they stand out on the light-colored wooden counter. Besides carefully selected Japanese sake, champagne and wine that go with sushi are also offered. The $180 per course is not cheap, but the customers seem to understand the added values to the food, conversation with the artisan chef, performance, and ambience. I asked Mr. Sasaki about his future prospects. He wants to open a place like a hotel that serves specialty Japanese dishes. The legend of Edomae-style Sushi by an experienced artisan, Sasaki, who has been involved
in the history of food trend in the Bay Area for a long time has just begun.


食通に人気のレストランが軒を並べるミッション地区で、彼らが注目する本格的な江戸前寿司おまかせ店、「Sasaki ] が昨年の暮れオープンした。ミッションの中心から少しはずれたハリソンストリートに位置する同店は、サンフラ ンシスコの和食店をミシュラン星やビブグルマンに導いたベテラン寿司シェフ、佐々木 雅喜氏による集大成である。外観には 看板は無く、ドア部分に小さくのサインがあるのみ。しかし そのドアを開けると銀座の高級寿司店の ような洗練された空間が広が広がる。「Sasaki」は、純正の江戸前鮨のコースを味わう サンフランシスコ屈指のレストランだ。

佐々木氏はアメリカで寿司シェフとして40年近くキャリアを積んできた。ニューヨークやベイエリアの名店でシェフを務めた後、2013 年にはミッション地区に寿司店Maruya をパートナーと共にオープンしミシュランスターも獲得した。しかし自らの理想とする寿司スタイルを貫く為、1年後に同店を離れる。その後は寿司コンサルタントとして「Omakase」や「Delage」など、話題の店の立ち上げに携わってきた。そんな佐々木氏が今回初めて経営者となる店では、アメリカナイズされていない江戸前寿司が味わえる。

提供されるのは$180のおまかせ1コースのみ。3~4品のおつまみに続き、握り寿司14 貫、赤だし、デザートという3部構成。「刺身盛り合わせや肉料理、揚げ物、ロールは出さない」と佐々木氏。こだわりのコースは、陶器の小箱に入った一口前菜に続いて、江戸前の基本である漬けマグロの握りが出される。マグロの赤身は漬けにすることで旨みが際立ち、食感もねっとりと濃厚な味わいだ。そのフレーバーに合わせたシャリは熟成させた酒粕を原料とした赤酢を使用している。江戸前鮨では伝統的に赤酢が使われ、米酢に比べてまろやかな旨みがある。そのため砂糖は使用しない。「寿司の中で一番大事なのは魚ではなくシャリ」とすし酢を変えて提供する店は全米でも珍しい。コースの中ほどに出される白身や貝類など繊細な味には、通常の米酢を使用し、脂の乗ったネタや光り物には赤酢のシャリと使い分けている。漬けマグロの後は蒸し鮑や煮だこなどのつまみが数品続き、メインの握りに移行する。一般的には白身など味わいの薄いものから脂の乗ったネタへと移行する店が多いが、ここでは赤酢のシャリを合わせた中トロやキンメなど濃厚な魚の寿司4貫から始まる。そして吸い物の後、貝類や酢じめの春子鯛などのさっぱりした握りが4貫、その後再び赤酢のシャリで大トロや穴子、コハダ、手巻きと続く。締めに出される卵焼きは、卵のみの厚焼き卵とエビのすり身を使ったカステラ卵の2種類が提供され、最後まで楽しませてくれる。

江戸前鮨の特徴は昆布や塩、醤油、酢などを用いた「仕事」で魚の旨みや味わいを凝縮するところにある。東京湾で上がった魚をいかに保存し、美味しく食べるかという江戸庶民の知恵から始まった技だ。築地から直送された魚には全て「仕事」が施され、最も美味しい状態で提供される。佐々木氏ともう一人のキッチンスタッフの2人だけで行うのだから、1日限定ディナーのみ6席(2回転12 客)(週末は3回転で18 客)の予約のみというのもうなずける。予約時間は決まっており、全員が揃ったところで一斉にスタートする。客との対話がしやすいようにとあえて低めにデザインしたヒノキのカウンターの下には通常あるはずの冷蔵庫がない。握り寿司のネタはシャリを変えるタイミングと同時に奥のキッチンから白木のネタケースに入れて運ばれる。コースは佐々木氏の料理の説明と共に流れるように進んでいく。

器やインテリアにも佐々木氏の美学が反映される。器は知人の小田原の住職、山中氏の手によるもの。山中氏の器はSaison やBenu、Manresa といったSFのミシュラン星レストランでも使われている。鮨を乗せる「ゲタ」も白木のカウンターに映える黒の正方形スレートが使用されている。ドリンクメニューは、厳選した日本酒だけでなく、鮨に合うシャンパンやワインも提供。コースで$180は決して安くはないが、お客には料理だけではなく、職人との対話、演出、雰囲気を全て揃えた価値観は伝わっているようだ。佐々木氏に今後の展望を尋ねると、いつかは料理旅館のような宿を始めたいという。長年ベイエリアでトレンドの変遷に関わってきたベテラン職人、佐々木氏による「江戸前寿司」の新たな伝説が始まる。

2400 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 828-1912

Tues.-Thurs./ 6:00pm-11:00pm
Fri.-Sat./ 5:30pm-11:00pm
Closed on Sunday and Monday
#alljapannews #sdomae #sushi #SF #sasaki


The disruption of the Sho Chu Market

By Yuji Matsumoto

While sake is renown as an alcoholic beverage unique to Japan, there is very little recognition of shochu among American consumers. Because there is little information on the difference between the Korean Soju and traditional Japanese shochu, consumers are confused. This is a unique case particular to California, but despite shochu being a distilled spirit, if imported with alcohol level below 24%, then restaurants with Beer & Wine licenses can sell them as “Soju” as long as they’re imported and registered accordingly. Because over 90% of Japanese restaurants in California only hold Beer & Wine licenses, the term “Soju” must be used over “Shochu.” Depending on the manufacturers, some register two different labels for the same brand: the term “Soju” is used for alcohol level of 24%, while alcohol level of 25% and above is referred to as “Shochu.” The root of all confusion is this law. While the vendor wants to sell as Shochu, the market becomes so limited by the naming that vendors are forced to sell them as “Soju” instead. Since the label reads “Soju,” there’s no point in trying to explain that “Japanese Shochu is different from Soju,” since most American consumers don’t read Japanese and won’t understand the difference. I’m also troubled about how to train my employees.

The root of all confusion is this law. While the vendor wants to sell as Shochu, the market becomes so limited by the naming that vendors are forced to sell them as “Soju” instead. Since the label reads “Soju,” there’s no point in trying to explain that “Japanese Shochu is different from Soju,” since most American consumers don’t read Japanese and won’t understand the difference. I’m also troubled about how to train my employees.

While the Japanese are well aware of the obvious difference between the Korean Soju and traditional Japanese shochu by the name, it’s still a notable problem that American consumers who hold the key to expansion into future markets don’t know this difference. Since it seems unlikely that this law will be revised anytime soon, the only option is to advocate the ingredients, processing methods and ways to enjoy shochu as Japanese Premium Soju. Also, for import and distribution companies, one suggestion would be to distinguish Shochu as Japanese Premium Soju, or to include the subtitle “Honkaku Soju.”


日本固有の酒文化として日本酒(サケ)は大分知られるようになったが、まだまだ焼酎の知名度はアメリカ人にとって低い。また、韓国Sojuと日本の本格焼酎の違いについても情報提供がないため、消費者は困惑するばかりだ。カリフォルニア州での例外話しだが、日本の焼酎は蒸留酒にもかかわらず、アルコール度数が24度以下で「Soju」として輸入登録すればBeer & Wineライセンスのレストランでも売れる面白い法がある。9割以上のカリフォルニア州の日本食レストランは、Beer & Wineのライセンスしか保有していないので、ここで飲めるのは焼酎という名前ではなくSojuということになる。




日本人にとってはその違いは文字で端的に韓国Sojuと日本の本格焼酎の区別が理解できるが、今後の市場の拡大を握っているアメリカ人消費者には分からないのが大きな課題だ。この法律規制は、当面解消されることがないので、とりあえずはJapanese Premium Sojuとしてその原料や製法、飲み方を提唱していくことしかないのである。また、輸入や販売会社においては、Japanese Premium Soju、もしくは、サブタイトルに「Honkaku Soju」と入れるといいかもしれない。
#alljapannews #soju #sake #shochu


Sake Nation  “Kosher Certification Part 4”

By Kosuke Kuji

For Kosher certification, we start by having the Rabbi, leader of Judaism religion, observe the raw materials and manufacturing processes. After Nanbu Bijin planned to apply for Kosher certification for about 1 and ½ years, we had Rabbi Edelhi (exact spelling not sure) of Chabad of Japan come to our brewery many times. Certification for plum wine and other liquors besides sake were involved so the number of visits were more than usual, and we also had him observe the raw material of rice(s), fruit producer(s), and processing facilities etc. During the processing, even though indications of temperature of sterilization or as a raw material it is not certified, he carefully observed the contents of the extract that are used to culture the yeast etc, and strictly checked to see if any animal product or dairy product was used. In addition, regarding the raw materials, they all needed to be separated as ‘Kosher use’ in their records and must easily be identified at a glance. During this process, there was a problem with “distilled alcohol” which had the highest hurdle of Kosher certification for Japanese sake. At first we were told that we would not be able to receive Kosher certification if distilled alcohol was used due to difficulty of identifying the raw material(s) of distilled alcohol. Also, we had to show the condition of the distilled alcohol before it was mixed, and to put it strictly, this could not be achieved without having 2 separate facilities to make the sake.

However a large light of hope beamed on us here. One kind of distilled alcohol made by a distilled alcohol company in Shizuoka prefecture unbelievably succeeded in receiving Kosher certification as is.

In other words, if you use that Kosher certified distilled alcohol, the hurdle would immediately get lowered and the brewer of the Japanese sake got lucky to receive Kosher certification.

酒豪大陸「コーシャ認定 その4」


南部美人としてコーシャの認定を受けようと計画してから約1年半かけて、何度もCHABAD OF JAPANのラビのエデリーさんに蔵にきていただきました。日本酒だけではなく、梅酒などのリキュールの認定もあるので、その回数は通常よりも多く、さらには、原材料の米や果実の生産者、加工の施設なども視察していただきました。





#alljapannews #sake #koshercertification


Making a hit without changing the business style used in Japan!

Making a hit without changing t... Making a hit without changing t... Making a hit without changing t... Making a hit without changing t... Making a hit without changing t...
By Aya Ota

It has been long believed that bringing the Japanese way of business as is to the US would not lead to success. It has to be modified to fit the tastes and habits of local customers. Lately in the New York area, although authentic Japanese taste in general has settled in and well accepted in various menus, I believe almost no one has succeeded in bringing the Japanese way in every aspect including styles of service and operation up until now. The “Ikinari Steak” chain in Japan has been growing with incredible speed since the opening in December of 2013 with their innovative concept of “tachigui steak” (meaning you eat steak standing up), and now has 120 restaurants all over Japan. In February of 2017, their first overseas restaurant opened in the East Village of Manhattan, and has rapidly become super popular with more than 400 visitors daily.

Here is how it is at “Ikinari Steak”—when you enter the restaurant, you will be guided to a table with usually no chairs (There are a few with chairs). You pick up a number plate on your table, walk towards the kitchen, and order your steak. There are 4 different types of steaks: “Ribeye” ($2.55/ oz), “Sirloin ($2.27/oz), “Filet” ($3.12/oz), and “Assorted Steak”) ($22.16 for 10oz). The price is by the weight of your order, and the meat is cut in front of you. The meat will be cooked according to your preference right away, and brought to your table on a sizzling hot iron plate. You pour the soy sauce-based special sauce made in-house by yourself, and eat the steaming excellent quality meat that is full of aroma. When you finish eating, you take the check on the table to the cashier to pay for your meal.

“The customers seem to enjoy the experience as a whole,” says Takashi Tsuchiyama, the US President of the company. During the planning for the opening, many people thought that no one would want to eat steak standing up, or that it would be so uncommon to have customers bring the bill to the cashier, but all those worries turned out to be in vain. The concept of “eating standing up” came from the hopes of offering high quality meat with reasonable pricing. As a result, the great taste and quality led to winning. In Japan, they use US, Australian, and domestic meat according to the menu, but in the US, they use only American beef to enable the offering of low cost yet high quality meat.

Customers in general prefer medium rare temperature, but the restaurant strongly recommends rare steak, and now 30% of the customers prefer rare. Their special sauce created with the idea of Kunio Ichinose, the founder of the company, is served warm in a thermos so the cooked-off-the-grill piping-hot steak won’t cool down.

The serving style of Japan is directly introduced as well. As soon as you arrive to your table, a glass of water is served. There is a place under the table for your belongings. In order to avoid spills or smells, your belongings will be covered with a cloth napkin, and for you, they provide a paper apron to protect your clothing from the spill of meat juice. The restaurant staff wear a see-through plastic mask for hygiene, and so not to hide their friendly smiles.

Their detailed service doesn’t end there. There is an odor-eliminating spray can at the exit. No tipping is necessary. The specially-priced lunch menu is offered until 5PM. There is no compromising except the little inconvenience of eating standing up. They also made minor adjustments by making the tables higher and wider than the standard sizes, and just started to change the meat weight unit from grams to ounces in July. All those efforts are for their “customers first” principle.
Their second restaurant is planned to open around this coming October in the Chelsea District. Their goal is to open 20 restaurants in Manhattan alone, and eventually a total of 1,000 restaurants nationwide. The secret for their success in Japan, where they opened 100 branches in only 3 years, was limiting the number of menu items for effective operation and productivity. One other secret for success for this New York restaurant is the introduction of Japanese sake on the menu. The promotion of the “J-Steak”, a Japan-made steak eating style, was very effective, and also made people want to drink sake. They introduced only one brand of sake in April, and sell more than 100 bottles a month.

Their next immediate goal is to familiarize in the US, the “Niku (meat) Mileage membership card” combined with an app., which is very popular in Japan. You collect points according to the weight of the meat you eat for discounts. In Japan, you can even add pre-paid amounts on the card, and get bonuses accordingly. They also publish the customer ranking according to the collected points, which creates many repeaters who wants to come eat steaks as if they enjoy playing games. I would really like you to go and try this new restaurant, “Ikinari Steak” in New York that gives you continuous surprise and excitement.


米国飲食業界では長年、「日本のやり方を持ってきてもうまくいかない。米国人客の嗜好や習慣に合わせなくてはいけない」と言われてきた。近年ニューヨークでは、メニューに関しては、日本そのままの本格的な味が受け入れられるようになったが、サービスやオペレーションまでそのまま持ってきて成功を収めている店は、これまで存在しなかったのではないだろうか。『いきなり!ステーキ』は“ 立ち食いステーキ”という斬新なコンセプトで、2013年12 月創業後、驚異的速度で日本全国に約120店舗に拡大。そして、2017年2 月、海外1 号店をイーストヴィレッジ地区に開店。瞬く間に一日400 人もの客が訪れる人気店となった。
 『いきなり!ステーキ』の仕組みはこうだ。店内に入ると、まずテーブルに案内される。テーブルと言っても、基本的には椅子はない(一部着席できるテーブルがある)。テーブルに設置された番号札を持って、キッチンへ歩き、肉を注文する。メニューは「リブロース($2.55/oz)」「サーロイン($2.27/oz)」「ヒレ($3.12/oz)」「乱切りカットステーキ(10oz $22.16)」の4 種類のみ。目の前で塊肉を好みの量にカットしてくれ、値段は重さに応じて決まる。焼き方を選んだ後、すぐさま焼き上げ、アツアツの鉄皿に乗せて、テーブルに運ばれる。客は自らの手で、醤油ベースの特製ソースをかけ、その香りと湯気を楽しみながら、極上の肉をほおばる。食べ終わったら、テーブルに置かれたチェックをレジに持参して精算…という流れだ。

「客はこの世界観全体を楽しんでいる」と話すのは米国社長の槌山隆氏。開店計画中には「ステーキを立ち食いする客などいない」「レジで会計させるのは非常識」などの声も多かったが、杞憂に終わった。立ち食いを導入したのは、そもそも「高級ステーキを安価に楽しんでほしい」と考えたからこそ。結果的に、味や品質が勝因につながった。日本では、牛肉は米国・豪州・国産を使い分けているが、ニューヨーク店ではすべて米国産を採用した結果、より低コストで高品質な肉を提供できている。一般的にミディアム・レアを好む客が多い中、同店では自慢のレアを堂々と勧めて、レアを頼む客も約3 割に増えたという。創業者の一瀬邦夫氏が考案した特製ソースは、焼きたての肉に温かいソースをかけるという細やかな配慮で、保温ポットで提供される。

日本で実践しているおもてなしもそのまま導入。テーブルに着くと即座に水が運ばれる。足下の荷物置き場に荷物を置くと、臭いや汚れがつかないようさっと布をかけてくれる。肉汁が飛ばないように紙製のエプロンを用意。店員のマスクは、衛生面と笑顔が見えることを両立させた透明のプラスチック製。店の出口には消臭スプレーを設置。チップも廃止。ランチタイムには破格なメニューを用意し、しかも夕方5 時まで注文可能だ。

つまり、立ち食いなだけで、他は一切妥協しない。わずかに調整を加えたことと言えば、テーブルを少し高く、幅を広くしたこと。そして、この7 月にはグラム表示からオンス表示へ変更したこと。「顧客満足が第一」と考えるからこその調整だ。

10月頃には2号店をチェルシー地区に開店予定。マンハッタンだけでも20店舗、全米に1,000 店舗を目指しているという。日本でもわずか3 年で100 店舗という偉業を成し遂げた秘訣は、徹底してメニュー数を絞り、オペレーションを効率化し生産性を向上させたことにある。ひとつニューヨーク店初の試みとして成功したのは、日本酒の導入だ。日本発ステーキ“J-Steak” としての打ち出し方が功を奏し、日本酒を飲みたいという客が多かったという。4 月から1 種類のみ導入したが、1 カ月にボトル100 本以上売れるという。



Ikinari Steak
90 E 10th Street
New York, NY 10003
Tel: 917-388-3546
#alljapannews #tachigui #Japanese #steak #NY #ikinaristeak


Replicating authentic Japanese izakaya with the food, service and ambience

Replicating authentic Japanese ... Replicating authentic Japanese ... Replicating authentic Japanese ... Replicating authentic Japanese ... Replicating authentic Japanese ...
By Keiko Fukuda

There is a restaurant in Torrance that has gained popularity quickly in the past few years for its vivid ambiance, in which you enjoy fresh seafood and meat dishes. It is “Izakaya Hachi”. Another Hachi restaurant also opened in Costa Mesa in Orange County a year ago. They opened their first restaurant in Santa Monica about 9 years ago as an affiliated restaurant of the Manpuku Group, and their popularity grew when they moved to Torrance in April of 2013.

“Back then, my goal was to make a restaurant where people can feel the true essence of Japan in Torrance where many people from Japan live, and many of them are corporate business people on assignments. My image for this place was a typical izakaya in the Shinbashi area of Tokyo. Lately, more and more local people started to come by word of mouth. I was not expecting that, but I heard that good reviews on social media such as Yelp spread widely,” says Tomohisa Kawachi, the Supervisor.
Their meat is procured from the same vendor which the Manpuku Group uses. Hachi’s most recommended meat dish is the thickly sliced beef tongue. The slowly charcoal-broiled tongue is flavorful and has a hint of sweetness. Their solid confidence in the freshness of the ingredients is represented by having beef sashimi on the menu. The seafood ingredients are directly sent by air from Japan.

There are so many items of seafood, meat, vegetables, and even Battera (pressed sushi) on the menu, which makes it difficult for you to make decisions. The list of menu items gets renewed every 6 months after a deep discussion between the chef and Mr. Kawachi.

Kawachi continues, “The data shows what sells well. What we want to push is not necessarily the same as what customers want. Therefore, based on the data, we decide what to leave, and what to add on the menu. For the dishes that are loved by only a few customers, we still offer them as the daily specials once in a while.”

Among their alcoholic drinks they carry for pairing with the food items, they recommend “Shinriki” from Hiroshima as a rare and precious sake brand. Among sake rice, Yamadanishiki is well known nowadays; however, before World War II, Shinrikimai was also very widely used along with Yamadanishiki. The Shinrikimai was believed to be eradicated due to the atomic bombing in the area.

He said, “A small amount of survived crop was found a few years ago, and preserved. Now, only a few hundred bottles of sake made with Shinrikimai are sold only in Kure-city of the Hiroshima prefecture. We get a few of those precious bottles through a special connection after a negotiation.
The sake Kawachi loves is "namazake" (non-filtered raw unprocessed sake). He says, “Its alcohol content is 19%, which is very different from other dry, fresh Japanese sake brands that are currently popular in the US. It tastes so satisfying!” He seems to be really fond of this sake.

“Customers are happy as long as good food and sake are there, and we tend to speak louder encouraged by seeing them being content. This reaction provides the restaurant’s vivid ambiance. I believe that vividness of a restaurant is created not intentionally by the restaurant, but by the customers. To me, it is very important for the healthy growth of the restaurant to keep making solid and consistent efforts in improving the quality of the service with continuous training of the staff,” says Kiuchi. This restaurant does not advertise at all. I asked him about the target for 5 years from now. “I would like Hachi to become a restaurant of a higher quality, meaning the kind of restaurant which even people from far-away places want to visit.”

Even now, there are already more than a few people who come from outside of the State. They also even have received a request to open another branch outside of California. However, as an immediate goal, Kawachi thinks it is more important to have the Costa Mesa branch catch up with the success of Torrance. I believe that the possibility of having more branches may open up after achieving that goal.













Izakaya Hachi
1880 W.Carson St.Ste A
Torrance, CA 90501

Mon.-Thu. 5:30pm-10:30pm
Fri. 5:30pm-11:00pm
Sat. 5:00pm-10:30pm
Sun. 5:00pm-10:00pm
#alljapannews #Japanese #sake #izakaya #authentic #Torrance


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