Japanese Sake : All Japan News,Inc

By Kosuke Kuji

Nanbu Bijin is the first sake product in the world to receive the “Vegan” certification in January 2019, certified by The Vegan Society based in England and NPO Vege Project Japan.

The original ingredients of Japanese sake are rice, malted rice, and water, common knowledge among those somewhat knowledgeable about Japanese sake, and knowledge as basic as grapes being the main food ingredient for wine.

However, examining the Japanese sake label shows the ingredients are listed only in Japanese. Needless to say, this makes understanding the sake ingredients difficult for foreign consumers.

Faced with this dilemma, Nanbu Bijin’s sake and liqueur were certified as satisfying “Kosher” requirements stipulated under Jewish dietary laws in 2013.

Through this certification, Nanbu Bijin products were gradually introduced not only among non-Japanese fans of Japanese sake and non-Japanese consumers knowledgeable about Japan, but also among a wide range of non-Japanese consumers. One American national asked, “If Japanese sake is Kosher, why won’t you get Vegan-certified?” Of course, examining the Japanese sake ingredients gives evidence the product is “Vegan.” However, none of the Japanese sake products were certified as Vegan, because it was so obvious, no one noticed, to be more precise.

We have to start from disseminating the most obvious information to reach consumers beyond the Japanese. Therefore, we took on the challenge and with some time, we finally received the Vegan certification.

Japanese sake is produced using absolutely no animal products. Not only is this true for Vegan-certified Nanbu Bijin sake products, but also for other Japanese sake brands as well. Therefore, our sincere desire is for the entire Japanese sake industry to work together to get more sake breweries Vegan-certified to increase the value of Japanese sake products as a whole worldwide.


「世界初！ヴィーガン認定の日本酒誕生」

南部美人では、2019年1月、世界で初めて日本酒の「ヴィーガン」認定を受けました。イギリスを本部とするヴィーガンソサイエティーと日本のヴィーガン協会の2つから認定を受けました。

日本酒の原材料は「米」と「米こうじ」、そして水です。

これは日本酒をちょっとでも知っている人ならば誰でも知っている事で、まさにワインの原材料が「ぶどう」と答えるのと同じような基本的な事でもあります。
しかし、日本酒のラベルを見ても、原材料の部分は日本語でしか書かれていません。これでは外国人が日本酒の事を理解するのは難しいです。

そんな中で、南部美人では2013年にユダヤ教の食餌規定を満たす認定「コーシャ」を日本酒とリキュールで認められました。

そのことで、日本酒好きのノンジャパニーズや、日本の事を良く知るノンジャパニーズだけでは無く、広い範囲のノンジャパニーズの皆さんにお酒を少しずつ浸透させていきました。アメリカである方から「日本酒はコーシャであるなら、なんでヴィーガンの認定は受けないのか」と言われました。確かに日本酒の原材料だけ見ると間違いなく「ヴィーガン」です。しかしどの日本酒もヴィーガンの認定は受けていない、むしろ当たり前すぎて気づかなかったという方が正しいかもしれません。

当たり前なものを「見える化」しないと、日本人以外には伝わりません。そこで挑戦を始めて、時間がかかりましたがやっとヴィーガンの認定を受けました。

日本酒は動物性のものは一切使っていません。それはヴィーガンに認定された南部美人だけではなく、他の日本酒も一緒の事です。願わくば、日本酒業界が一丸となって多くの蔵がヴィーガン認定を取ることで、世界で日本酒の価値がさらに高まることを祈っています。

By Elli Sekine

Wagyu is becoming a fullfledged boom. You already regularly find “wagyu” in menus of American restaurants and delicatessens. However wagyu as a category in the US is still vague. In the meantime, “Niku Steakhouse”, which opened last year in the Design District of San Francisco, is a new type of steak restaurant that emphasizes brand wagyu and A4-5 quality strongly as a Japan-direct wagyu specialty restaurant. Since its opening, this restaurant has been so popular, that it has been achieving full capacity daily.

The Gulf region where this Design District is located, is changing to an IT business base due to a large-scale redevelopment. In this District, there has been a series of construction rushes of buildings and condominiums in the last 3 to 4 years, and along with the big IT businesses flowing into the area, the population has grown rapidly, public safety has been improved, and the number of high-end restaurants has also grown quickly. “Omakase Restaurant Group”, which started its restaurant business in this area early on, has been opening Japanese and Asian restaurants one after another, and producing many successful restaurants.

The “Omakase Restaurant Group” has developed a total of 5restaurants and a shop so far in this area. There are a variety of business models and concepts in them, from a Michelin-starred “Omakase” restaurant, to the casual “Dumpling Time” and “Udon Time”.

Among them, this “Niku Steakhouse” uses a high-end model, utilizing a cutting-edge facility and latest cooking techniques. This Group’s operation staff are Chinese. With their strong efforts in teaming up, they have developed unique routes and approaches to Japanese culture, education, and networking. They keep getting offers from investors because of their achievement records and planning power. They have a plan to launch a new venture in the near future, and “Dumpling Time” went overseas to Shibuya this year.

What is tremendously contributing to the quality management of the main theme of “Niku Steakhouse” which is the superb quality wagyu, is the “butcher shop” next door to the restaurant. There, Guy Crims, who is in charge of importing and butchering meat, is the core person who travels throughout Japan to purchase large quantities of meat. The carefully selected wagyu by Mr. Crims is cut by section first, and then further gets custom-cut to match each individual order. You can taste the specialty of the direct import quality of the steaks cooked in accordance with the weather conditions, raising methods, etc. of each region of the ingredients.

At the butcher shop, sliced wagyu with its characteristic delicious-looking marbled-fat patterns are displayed artistically, and are catching the eyes of the visitors. In this shop, even the location of production, individual ID number, and nose print of each wagyu are described. I asked the reason that they can offer relatively reasonable prices compared to other restaurants’ on A5 wagyu. Mr. Crims simply said, “It is because we buy a big bulk.” By selling also at the store front, the high-quality meat circulates with no waste. From last month, they started to sell “wagyu hamburgers” for lunch time only, and this has been causing a customer rush.

Its roomy interior space is modern and sophisticated. Its high ceiling and the courtyard outside of the windows provides a relaxed ambience. The counter space by the entrance is beautiful, and the tall and wide shelves that reach the ceiling showcase various alcoholic beverages, which heighten the restaurant spirit. At the bar counter, most of the customers enjoy pairing with wine. A drink menu with a vast selection containing everything from cocktails to sake, to wine and popular Japanese whiskey, is very attractive as well.

The dining space has an open kitchen, and a highly advanced grill and a gigantic charcoal burner table are installed to symbolize the restaurant’s “evolving steakhouse” image.

The person in the kitchen, who cooks tactically with radiating orange-colored flares from burning Japanese Binchotan charcoal and American domestic oak charcoal is the executive chef, Steve Brown. He was hired for his previous cooking experiences in working for a high-end steak restaurant and other fine restaurants. His high skills for delicately adjusting temperatures and achieving perfect doneness of meat, and his house-made fermented hot sauce are highly praised.

The Wagyu menu of the day of my visit contained A5 Satsuma, A5 Ono, A5 Kobe, A5 Takamori, etc. In addition to wagyu, the main menu also contains 40-day dry-aged prime Angus Porterhouse, Ribeye ($110~130), Kurobuta pork chop ($65), etc. The A5 wagyu each had a unique taste of richness, juiciness, flavorful-ness, smokiness, umami, and deepness. It depends on your preference, but the most popular item on that day was Takamori, which was on the sweet side, and well-balanced. Its umami spreads all over your mouth, and lingers for a long time. When you cut into the nicely browned aromatic surface, a beautiful pink inside appears. The superb balance of fat, protein, and minerals only produced by wagyu beef is concentrated in the umami by grilling it on the strong Binchotan charcoal fire.

“Niku Steakhouse” is the one and only wagyu specialty steak restaurant in the US, which utilizes locally-specialized wagyu knowledge and evolving techniques.


米国随一、日本直輸入和牛専門ステーキ店オープン

和牛ブームがいよいよ本格化している。すでに米国のレストランからデリまで「Wagyu」メニューは日常的となった。しかし未だに米国での「Wagyu」のカテゴリは曖昧だ。そんな中、サンフランシスコ、デザイン地区に今年オープンした「Niku Steakhouse」は、日本産輸入和牛専門としてブランド和牛とA4-5 品質をしっかりアピールする新しいタイプのステーキ店だ。オープン以来連日フルハウスの人気を博している。

デザイン地区を含む 湾岸一帯は、大規模な再開発でIT ビジネス拠点へと変貌している。同地区ではこの３、４年ビルやマンションの建設ラッシュが続き、IT大手企業が流入し人口が激増、治安は改善されハイエンドのレストランが一気に増えた。この地区に早くから飲食ビジネスを始めた「Omakase RestaurantGroup」は、日本食やアジアレストランを次々とオープンさせ、繁栄店を続出させている。

同エリアに現在計６ 店舗を展開する同グループは、ミシュラン一つ星の「Omakase」からカジュアルな「Dumpling Time」、「 Udon Time」まで異なる業種とコンセプトを持つ。中でも「Niku Steakhouse」は最新鋭の設備と調理テクニックを駆使したハイエンドレストラン。同グループの経営陣は中国人で、強力なチーム編成で日本へのアプローチ、教育、ネットワークに独自のジャパンルートを持つ。同グループの業績と企画力でインベスターのオファーは後をたたない。近い将来、新規事業も予定しており、「Dumpling Time」は今年、渋谷に海外進出を果たしている。

　「Niku Steakhouse」の主役、高品質の和牛の品質管理に大きく貢献しているのが、レストランに隣接した「ブッチャーショップ」だ。そこで輸入調達、食肉処理を担当するガイ・クリムズ氏は、良質のブランド牛農家を訪ね日本国中を旅し大量買い付けをする中心的人物だ。同氏が吟味した和牛は、ここで部位に切り分けられた魂肉は、目的に応じ最適なオーダーカットが施される。各地方の気象条件や肥育の特性を生かしたステーキは、産地直送ならではの味わいだ。

ショップでは、和牛の特徴である美味しげな霜降り模様の切り身がまるでアートのように配列され、訪れる客の興味をそそっている。店内では各和牛の生産地、個体識別番号、鼻紋まで表示する徹底ぶり。他レストランのA5 和牛と値段を比べるとリーズナブルな理由について同氏は、「仕入れの量が違うから」と一言。店頭販売もしており、上質肉を余すことなく循環させている。先月からはランチタイムのみ「和牛ハンバーガー」の販売が始まり、客が殺到している。

広い店内は洗練されたモダンなイメージで、高い天井とガラスごしの中庭が落ち着いた雰囲気を醸し出している。入り口には美しいカウンターバーがあり、天井まで届く広い棚には多種のアルコール類がレストランスピリッツを掻き立てる。ほとんどの客はワインとのペアリングを楽しんでいる。カクテルから酒、ワイン、人気のジャパンウィスキーまでバラエティに富むドリンクメニューも魅力的だ。

ダイニングルームはオープンキッチンになっており、「進化するステーキハウス」を象徴すべく最新グリルと巨大な炭焼テーブルが備る。日本産備長炭とアメリカ国内オーク炭を巧みに操りオレンジの光を放ちながら調理するのは、同店のエグゼキュティブシェフ、スティーブ・ブラウン氏。高級ステーキ店やファインレストランのシェフ経験を経ての就任だ。肉を焼くのに微妙な温度や焼き加減の繊細さのテクニックと自家製の“ 発酵ホットソース” は定評を得ている。

この日の和牛メニューはA5 Satsuma,A5 Ono, A5 Kobe, A5 Takamori などで、メインメニューには和牛以外も40day dry aged prime AngusPorterhouse, ribeye（$110~130)、Kurobuta pork chop（$65) も並ぶ。A5和牛の味わいはリッチ、ジューシー、フレーバフル、スモーキー、旨味、濃厚とそれぞれが個性豊かで味わい深い。好みもあるがこの日の一番人気はTakamoriで、甘みが強くバランスが良い。旨味が口いっぱいに広がり長く残る。香ばしいブラウンの焼き加減でナイフを入れると色艶良いピンク色だ。和牛ならでは脂質とタンパク質、ミネラルのバランスが絶妙で、備長炭の強い火によって旨味が凝縮されている。

　「Niku Steakhouse」は、ご当地和牛の知識と進化する技術を駆使した米国唯一の和牛専門ステーキ店だ。

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Niku Steakhouse
61 Division Street
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 829-7817
https://www.nikusteakhouse.com/
Everyday 4:30pm-10:00pm

Taste difference of different Sakes certainly originates from labels displaying rice polish or sake categories, but even more it is strongly influenced by the sake making process using koji mold etc or the water quality. That starts from rice selection, rice milling, soak time, steamed rice, koji mold and temperature maintenance, yeast cultivation, pressing, blending, pasteurize etc the list can be endless. By delicately adjusting the way the processes are intertwined, breweries are able to make the sakes they want.

There are many different special names & difficult phrasings in Japanese like "unfiltered sake", "Kimoto (traditional brewing method)", "Yamahai (traditional brewing method)", "Shiboritate (freshly pressed)", but in the first place there would hardly be any consumer that can understand what they mean. Even if they could understand, they wouldn't be able to pass on the taste or aroma, how it goes with food, creating inspiration to drink or motive to the consumers.

Instead, if you were to explain that "It's a Junmai Daiginjo that goes great
with whitefish and holds back the aroma", consumers would understand better. If you were to say "Kimoto Junmai that goes well with meat dishes" or "xxx Junmai goes exceptionally well with grilled fish" etc. would produce motive for consumers to drink.

To increase more sake drinking fans, it is important for breweries to describe inspiration creation to want to drink sake on their menus and labels.

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飲むきっかけ作り

日本酒の味の違いは、もちろんラベルに表示されている精米歩合や特定名称からも起因されるが、それより麹造りなどの全体作業（造り）や水質によって大きく影響される。それは、米の選別から始まり、精米方法、浸漬時間、蒸し方、麹造りと温度管理、酵母の培養、絞り、ブレンディング、貯蔵、火入れなど挙げれば切りが無い。これらが微妙に絡み合い調整することにより蔵の造りたい酒が出来てくる。

特定名称や難しい表現「無ろ過生原酒」「生もと造り」「山廃造り」「絞りたて」など色々と日本語でラベルに書かれているが、そもそもこの意味が何を意味しているのかを理解している消費者は、ほとんどいない。たとえ理解したとしても味や香り、食事との相性、飲んでみたいきっかけや動機を消費者に与えていない。

それより、「白身魚との抜群な相性、香りを控えめにした純米大吟醸」とした方が消費者は分かりやすい。「肉料理にも合う、生もと純米」、「焼き魚と抜群な相性を持つxxx純米」などとした方が消費者に飲む動機を与える。

日本酒ファンをもっと広げるためには、日本酒を飲んでみたいきっかけ作りをメニューやラベル上で表現することが重要である。

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釀製喝酒契機

不言而喻，清酒的味道差異某程度上來自標籤上顯示的精米步合（經處理後的白米與原料玄米的比重）和特別名稱等；但誘發更大影響的會是製麹等的整體製作程序，水質等。製作程序是由挑選米、精米（玄米處理）手法、浸泡時間、蒸煮方法、製麹和溫度管理、培養酵母、壓榨、混合、保存、高溫殺菌等數之不盡的工序所組成。通過絕妙地調整各工序，酒藏可以製作出其所想製作的酒。

雖然標籤上寫有許多特別名稱或艱澀用語如「無過濾生原酒（指沒有經過任何後期加工，於壓榨後直接裝瓶的酒）」、「生酛（手製酵母）造酒」、「山廢（略過山卸工序）造酒」、「鮮榨」等；但事實上卻只有為數極少的消費者了解上述用語的意義。再者，即使理解箇中意味，亦無法因此令消費者理解其香味、味道、與料理的襯托程度；更不能帶給消費者嘗試該酒的契機或動力。

相反，如以「與白魚極為配襯，香味清淡的純米大吟釀」等方法說明，會更易令消費者明白。而「亦與肉類料理配襯的生酛純米酒」，「與燒魚極為配襯的ＸＸＸ純米酒」等表達手法，能賦予消費者嘗試的契機。

為進一步增加清酒愛好者的數量，在選單或標籤上創造出「想喝清酒的契機」極為重要。

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마실 기회 만들기

일본 술은 라벨에 표시된 정미 비율과 특정 명칭에 따라 맛에 차이가 납니다. 하지만 누룩 만들기 등 전체 작업(만들기)과 물의 질에 따라 크게 영향을 받습니다. 쌀의 선별부터 정미 방법, 침지 시간, 증류 방법, 누룩 만들기와 온도 관리, 효모 배양, 짜기, 브랜딩, 저장, 불의 세기 등 차이를 만드는 요소는 셀 수 없을 정도로 많습니다. 이런 요소가 미묘하게 서로 얽히고 적절하게 섞여 원하는 술이 만들어집니다.

‘무로카나마겐슈’, ‘기모토즈쿠리’, 야마하이즈쿠리’, ‘시보리다테’ 등 특정 명칭과 어려운 표현으로 다양하게 일본어 라벨에 표시하지만, 애당초 그 의미가 무엇을 의미하는지 이해하는 소비자는 거의 없습니다. 예를 들어 이해한다고 해도 맛과 향, 식사와의 조합을 다 알 수 없고, 마시고 싶은 계기와 동기를 소비자에게 부여하지도 않습니다.

이것보다는 ‘흰 살 생선과 최고의 조합, 향을 줄인 준마이 다이긴죠’라고 표시하는 편이 소비자가 더 알기 쉽습니다. ‘육류 요리와도 잘 어울리는 기모토 준마이’, ‘구운 생선과 찰떡 궁합인 XXX 준마이’ 등으로 표현하는 것이 소비자에게 마시고 싶은 동기를 부여합니다.

일본 술이 더욱더 많은 사람에게 사랑받기 위해서는 일본 술을 마시고 싶도록 메뉴와 라벨에 표현하는 것이 중요합니다.

By Aya Ota

A steak specialty fast food franchise, “Pepper Lunch”,opened its first New York location on March 21 of this year, and is drawing a lot of attention because the second location opened on July 3, already only 3 and a half months later.

At “Pepper Lunch”,, you order and pay first, and sit down at a table, and wait. Then, a sizzling hot iron plate arrives, and you, the customer, cooks your steak by yourself.

Not only can you cook your steak to your favorite doneness, but you canalso make it to suit your taste by adding their original steak sauce and toppings. Popularity was spurred by the fact that you can have good quality steak at a reasonable cost, and they have so far developed 470 locations in 16 countries worldwide (136 in Japan).

“Pepper Food Services Co., Ltd.” (“Kuni’s Corporation” in US), whichruns this restaurant chain, opened their first location in the US in February of 2017. They brought “Ikinari Steak”, their super popular chain in Japan known for its unique style of selling by weight, and having you eat standing up, on top of low pricing, to the East Village District of New York, and became the topic of conversation. Only within 2 years, they expanded their business to 11 locations in New York. In October of 2018, they got listed on NASDAQ as the first restaurant business from Japan. However, due to the later slow-down of the achievement, they were forced to make a big change in their business strategy, and closed 7 locations this year. They also made an announcement to withdraw from NASDAQ this fall.

Kunio Ichinose, Founder & CEO admits humbly; “Back then, I was stuck with the idea of replicating the Japanese way. I had no fear and was reckless. What to serve by how much and to whom? I was wrong about this from the start of our coming to the US,” he continues. Here in the States, steak is a luxurious and special food. The quality and taste of what we offered was well accepted, but low pricing and stand-up eating style did not go well.

Moreover, due to the facts such as the hasty increase of locations, and having a no-tipping system caused hardship in hiring and educating of the staff, which eventually led to compromising in the quality of the service. And this time, as the result of the big trajectory correction, they will concentrate on enhancing the brand power by continuing to run “Ikinari Steak” at 2 out of the 4 remaining locations, and develop “Pepper Lunch” at the other 2 locations because this model has a good record in developing overseas.

Overseas development of “Pepper Lunch” started 14 or 15 years ago in Singapore. They went to Australia next, and kept progressing differently from Japan in creating menus and developing styles according to the local needs. In 2018, they opened 2 locations in LA. They are developing this New York locations by bringing in a lot of these other overseas successful experiences from the past.

Their signature dish is the “Pepper Rice”, in which steak and rice is cooked together like fried rice. Since the opening of the first New York location, they have been quickly taking note of customers’ preferences, and started to serve variations with seafood such as shrimp and salmon. In addition to the steadily-desired steaks, they have added dishes combined with a hamburger patty and curry, which are not often found in the US. They also added combo dishes to the menu such as a 2 different kinds of steak combo, and combination dishes with a hamburger patty on the menu. They use only top 36% quality USDA certified Angus beef. Cup-sake is also offered, and is well accepted. They are steadily increasing fans by excitement and the heightened emotions that the customers feel from eating self-cooked food with lively noise and aroma.

They are planning to open another franchise restaurant in Las Vegas by the end of this year. Mr. Ichinose’s ambition “to spread casual steak culture, in which you eat steak regularly, and Japanese steak to all over the US” is unstoppable.


目の前で焼き上げる興奮と感動 ファストフード・ステーキハウス『ペッパーランチ』

ステーキ専門のファストフード・チェーン『ペッパーランチ』が、今年3月21日にニューヨーク初上陸を果たし、そのわずか3カ月半後の7月3日に2号店を開店し、注目されている。

同店では、来店後まず注文・会計を済ませ、テーブルに着席し待っていると、熱々の鉄板が運ばれてきて、客自らステーキを焼き上げるというスタイル。好みの焼き加減に仕上げられるだけでなく、同店オリジナルのステーキソースや追加トッピングを加え、好みの味付けに調えることができる。上質のステーキ肉を安価に食べられることも人気に拍車をかけ、現在では、世界16カ国に約470店舗（うち日本国内136店舗）を展開している。

同チェーンを運営する『株式会社ペッパーフードサービス』（米国法人『Kuni’s Corporation』）の米国初進出は2017年2月のこと。量り売りしたステーキを立ち食いするという独自性と低価格がウリで日本国内でも圧倒的な人気を誇る『いきなり！ステーキ』を、ニューヨークのイーストヴィレッジ地区に開店し話題となった。その後わずか2年でニューヨーク市内に11店舗まで拡大。2018年10月には、日本の外食産業では初となるナスダック上場も果たした。しかし、その後の業績不振により、大幅な戦略変更を強いられ、今年に入って7店舗を閉店したほか、今秋にはナスダック上場廃止することも発表した。

「当時は、日本でのやり方を再現することに固執していた。怖いもの知らずで無謀だった」と潔く語るのは、創業者で代表取締役社⻑の⼀瀬邦夫氏。「誰に何をいくらで提供するのか。米国進出では、この点を最初から間違えてしまった」と続ける。本場・米国では、ステーキは贅沢で特別な料理。同店が提供するステーキの品質や美味しさは高く評価されたものの、低価格や立ち食いといったコンセプトが浸透しなかった。また急速に店舗拡大したことやチップ制を導入しなかったことで、従業員採用や育成に苦戦し、サービスの質低下を招いてしまった。そして、今回、大幅な軌道修正を図った結果、残した4店舗のうち2店舗で『いきなり！ステーキ』継続しブランド力を高めることに注力し、もう2店舗では海外での出店実績が豊富にある『ペッパーランチ』を展開する。

『ペッパーランチ』の海外進出は14〜15年前、シンガポールが最初だった。その後、オーストラリアへ拡大し、現地ニーズに合わせてメニューや運営面も、日本とは違う発展を遂げていった。2018年にはロサンゼルスにも2店舗開店。ニューヨークの新店舗では、これら海外での成功事例を大いに取り入れた展開となっている。

同店を代表するメニューは、ステーキ肉とご飯を炒飯のように焼き上げる「ペッパーライス」だが、ニューヨーク1号店の開店以降、客の要望を迅速に吸い上げ、海老やサーモンなど魚介類を取り入れたペッパーライスも開始した。また、安定需要があるステーキに加え、米国ではあまり見かけないハンバーグやカレーを組み合わせたメニューも追加した。さらにはステーキ2種類や、ステーキとハンバーグの組み合わせなど、コンボメニューも加えた。牛肉は、USDA認定アンガス牛のうち、トップ36％の品質のみ採用している。カップ酒も提供し、評判は上々だ。客自ら、ジュージューと音や香りを立てながら調理して食べる興奮や感動で、着々とファンを増やしている。

年内にはラスベガスにフランチャイズ店を開店予定だ。「日常的にステーキを食べるカジュアル・ステーキ文化、ジャパニーズ・ステーキを米国に広めたい」という一瀬氏の野望はとどまることがない。

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Pepper Lunch Broadway
243 W 54th St. New York, NY 10019
(917) 472-7158

Pepper Lunch Chelsea
154 7th Ave, New York, NY 10011
(917) 409-5857

https://pepperlunch-usa.com/

Mon.-Sun. 11:00am-11:00pm
(Last Call: 10:30pm)

By Keiko Fukuda

The two words, “Nagoya” and “ramen”, were not linked together in my mind.

Then, in May of 2019, a friend, who is from Nagoya, asked me to go to this Nagoya-originated establishment with me, which just had its grand opening. That was when I first recognized Josui Ramen. Here, in Los Angeles, it has been a while since the popularity of tonkotsu ramen settled in, and lately, shoyu ramen is also gaining attention. This Josui Ramen’s signature ramen is, however, shio ramen. Besides shio ramen, their menu also contains shoyu ramen, miso ramen, tantan men, and yusoba. However, I thought that I could not judge how good they really were unless I tried the signature dish. So, I ordered the Josui ramen, which had a flavor so tender and deep.

After the visit, I often heard from my acquaintances saying, “I went to Josui Ramen”. I wanted to find out how well they had been doing after their first launching in the US, so I visited them again a while after the grand opening.

Three people, Mr. Yasuhiro Maruyama and Mr. Hiroya Morikawa, the partners/owners of Josui Ramen America, and Mr. Tomohiro Maehara, the chef sent from the Nagoya headquarters, welcomed me. I found out that the Josui Ramen chain is so enormously popular that they have won No. 1 status in various ramen ranking contests in the Tokai region of Japan. Chef Maehara, whose family in his hometown runs a ramen restaurant, had visited as many ramen restaurants as possible, and then decided to work for Josui Ramen. I asked him what part of Josui he found attractive. He answered, “You usually cannot separate ramen from the use of synthetic seasoning, but Josui’s ramen is made only with all natural flavors. You can taste the goodness of natural ingredients with Josui’s ramen.”

In view of launching a full-fledged business in the States, Josui Ramen started to participate in ramen fairs held in Orange County, etc., a few years ago under the direction of Mr. Tateo Araki, CEO of Wildwood co. Ltd, their management company. Convinced of a firm possibility of success felt there, they were looking for a location in the Los Angeles area. The present location in Torrance was introduced during that time when the building was unused due to renovation. The owner of the property is Mr. Maruyama, who runs a restaurant/karaoke bar next door to the present Josui Ramen, and another one in Lomita, an adjacent town. Maruyama-san wanted to join the launch of Nagoya’s Josui Ramen in the US, and decided to invest in it, and then Mr. Morikawa joined in its operation by being called by Maruyama-san.

This restaurant had a soft opening in the fall of 2018, and experienced some hardship before finally making the grand opening. I asked Mr. Maehara, who worked for 6 years with the Josui Ramen business in Nagoya, about the difference of the US from it. He said, “First, the water is different, so we installed a machine to make the water soft. We also struggled to find chicken that could produce good dashi. We continued the search of good enough chicken, and were finally able to find it through the help of a Japanese American company.” He said, that they have reached the stable and consistent taste now.

Only in America, they offer vegan ramen on the menu. They newly added this item, which doesn’t exist in Nagoya, knowing that there are many more vegans in the US than expected. Konbu is used for shoyu ramen, and soy milk is used for miso ramen.

As of July of this year, 60% of the customers are Japanese. All 3 say the same thing. “We came here to convey the authentic taste of Nagoya ramen, so we want to increase the ratio of the local customers from now on.” In order to realize the purpose of “conveying the real ramen taste to America”, they must be looking for the possibility of further development of the chain, I thought. I asked them about it. Each gentleman passionately spoke about their thoughts on Josui. Mr. Maruyama said, “I aim for conquering the whole US, but I would like to firmly stabilize this Torrance location first. I am expecting some after-Karaoke crowd since we are right next to it.” Mr. Morikawa said, “I’d like many people to know that there is such simple, but delicious ramen besides tonkotsu.” Mr. Maehara said, “I’d like people to taste our ramen made with so much care and particularity.”


名古屋の大人気ラーメン 自然由来のシンプルな味わい

「名古屋」と「ラーメン」という２つのワードは筆者の中では結びついていなかった。ところが2019年５月、グランドオープニングを迎えたばかりの名古屋発祥の如水ラーメンに名古屋出身者に誘われて行った際に、その存在を初めて知った。ここロサンゼルスでは豚骨ラーメンが人気を集めて久しく、最近は醤油ラーメンも注目されるようになっているが、この如水ラーメンのシグニチャーラーメンはさっぱりした塩ラーメンだ。メニューには如水ラーメンの他にも醤油ラーメン、味噌ラーメン、坦々麺や油そばが並んでいる。しかし、シグニチャーディッシュをいただかないことにはその店の実力は測れない。そこでいただいた如水ラーメン、実に優しく奥の深い味だった。

その後、知り合いの間から「如水ラーメンに行ってきた」という声が頻繁に聞かれるようになった。そこで、グランドオープニングから少し時間が経ったタイミングで、アメリカ進出後の手応えを聞こうと同店を訪れた。迎えてくれたのは、アメリカの如水ラーメンの協同経営者である丸山康弘さんと森川博也さん、そして名古屋の本家から派遣されているシェフの前原智之さんの３名。聞けば、如水ラーメンは数多のラーメンランキングにおいて、東海地区で１位に輝く超人気店だという。実家がラーメン店を経営している前原さんは、あらゆるラーメン店を食べ歩き、自分の勤務先に如水ラーメンを選んだのだそうだ。如水ラーメンのどこに惹かれたのかと聞くと、「ラーメンと言えば化学調味料と切り離しては考えられないのですが、如水のラーメンは、天然そのままの味で勝負しています。素材の良さを味わえるのが如水のラーメンです」と答えた。

如水ラーメンは本格的なアメリカ上陸を視野に、経営元のワイルドウッド株式会社代表の荒木建夫さんの主導の下、オレンジ郡などで開催されるラーメンフェアに数年前から出展していた。そこでの確かな手応えを得て、ロサンゼルスエリアで物件を探していた時に、改装を目的に店舗が空いていたトーランスの今の場所を紹介されたという。その店舗のオーナーが、隣の市ロミータと今の如水ラーメンの隣でカラオケを含む飲食店を経営する丸山さん。丸山さんは名古屋の如水ラーメンのアメリカ進出に参加したいと出資を決め、さらに丸山さんに声をかけられた森川さんも経営に加わったということだ。

店は2018年秋からソフトオープンしたが、グランドオープニングを迎えるまでは苦労もあった。名古屋で６年間、如水ラーメンに携わってきた前原さんにアメリカとの違いを聞いた。「まず、水が違うので、軟水にする機械を導入しました。さらにだしがしっかりと出る鶏肉を探すのに苦労しました。納得できる鶏肉を探し続けて、やっと日系の業者さん経由で巡り会うことができました」。そして、現在は安定の味にたどり着いたということだ。

また、アメリカならではのメニューがビーガンラーメン。これは名古屋にはなく、予想以上にアメリカにはビーガンが多いことを知ったことで新たに誕生した。醤油ラーメンは昆布で、味噌ラーメンは豆乳でだしを取っている。

顧客は7月時点で６割が日本人。「名古屋の本物のラーメンの味を伝えるためにやってきたので、今後はローカルの顧客の割合を増やしていきたいと思います」と３人は口を揃える。また、「アメリカに本物のラーメンを伝える」という目的を達成するには、今後のチェーン展開も視野に入っているはずだ。その点を聞くと、「全米制覇を目指してはいるが、まずはこのトーランスの店の足元をしっかりと固めたい。カラオケと隣接しているので歌った後のラーメン需要も期待しています」と丸山さん。森川さんは「豚骨ラーメン以外にもこんなにシンプルで美味しいラーメンがあるということを多くの人に知ってほしい」、前原さんは「大事に作っているこだわりのラーメンを味わってほしい」と、それぞれの如水にかける熱い思いを話してくれた。

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Josui Ramen
2212 Artesia Blvd
Torrance, CA 90504

(310) 505-5124

Wednesday-Monday
11:30am-2:00pm, 5:30pm-9:30pm

Closed Tuesdays