Japanese Sake : All Japan News,Inc

Cautionary Notes for Tasting Sake  

 

To taste sake, first visually inspect the color tone and appearance of the sake. 

 

*Color tone 

 

Apart from nigori (cloudy) sake, one might imagine sake to be colorless and transparent. Primarily, freshly squeezed sake has a slight yellow or green tint. Although “clear appearance like water” was long considered a condition of quality sake, color is now gaining acceptance as a property that adds uniqueness to sake. 

 

*Opacity 

 

Refers to the clarity or luster of sake. Generally green and clear sake is fresh, light, and delicate in flavor, while golden-hued sake is aged and said to be savory in flavor. 

 

*Carbonation

 

For sparkling sake, confirm the fizz. Observe the size of bubbles, the carbonation level (amount of bubbles), and persistence (how long the fizz lasts).

 

 

 

By Ryuji Takahashi
 
Many sake tasting events are held throughout Japan during the fall season. Sake breweries hustle to attend numerous sake tasting events to promote their sake as their last major job before starting their brewing season. I attended the jizake (local sake) fair organized by the Shimane Sake Brewers Association, held at the Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan (Tokyo Traffic Hall). Although there are many theories, Shimane prefecture is said to be where sake production originated, also home to the “Saka Shrine,” where the deity of sake is enshrined. 
 
The shrine still holds a sake brewing license to brew up to 48 gallons of sake per year. The chief priest acts as the Master Sake Brewer to brew cloudy sake as an offering to the deity. The sake is also served to worshippers at the Saka Shrine Autumn Festival on October 13. 
 
However, Shimane prefecture is not widely recognized as a sake producing region. Most people would likely name Niigata prefecture or Hyogo prefecture as renowned sake producing regions that first comes to mind. The local jizake fair is organized to celebrate Shimane prefecture as the birthplace of sake production. However, fewer breweries participated compared to the previous year, attended by fewer guests as well. 
 
This is because the coronavirus pandemic ended and big sake tasting events are organized in various regions, thus sake breweries and consumers are widely scattered. In addition, the fall season is still hot. I visited all the sake breweries and sampled their sake. There was a time when fruity sake seemed to be popular, but recently, it seems that peculiar flavors of dry sake that are characteristic of Shimane prefecture are becoming more popular.  
 
This may be because more sake breweries are using sake rice locally grown in Shimane prefecture for local consumption. Sake breweries seem to face the challenge of deciding how to generate sake flavors using locally grown rice to attract male and female consumers of all ages. Next week, I plan to attend another sake tasting event organized by Ichinomiya Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. (Oda city, Shimane prefecture) at a local sake specialty shop in the Hatsudai area. Chief Brewer Rika Asano will describe one sake at a time as she pours the sake for guests, an intimate tasting experience not offered at big sake tasting events. 
 

 

Operated by a husband and wife team of young and talented brewers, Ichinomiya Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. has garnered numerous Gold Prizes at The National New Sake Tasting Competition. Their main sake brand is “Iwami Ginzan,” an original and innovative sake introduced by this young couple. On this day, 10 different sake selections both familiar and new were served. The chief brewer avoided the use of industry jargon and carefully explained each sake product in simple terms that was easily understood by novices and connoisseurs alike. Guests seemed satisfied as they savored each sake, and many purchased quite a few sake bottles to take home. Sake, long produced in Shimane prefecture, is expected to overcome challenges as the flavors continue to evolve. 
 
 

The fundamental meaning of Ginjo is “sake brewed under close examination and scrutiny,” generally understood to be sake raised to the level of art from thorough brewing by the brewing master who further refines the highest quality of sake rice. Previously, since sake was produced for submission to sake competitions, these sake were not sold in the market. However, Ginjo is garnering attention as high-end sake due to the Japanese sake boom during the past twenty years.      
 
“Standards for Manufacturing Methods and Quality Indication for Sake” by the National Tax Agency defines Ginjo as sake produced according to the Ginjo production method utilizing sake rice polished below the rice polishing ratio of 60 percent, regulated as sake with a “characteristic aroma and good luster and color.” This is the definition for Ginjo sake, however, “Daiginjo” is defined as sake with the rice polishing ratio of below 50 percent, with a “characteristic aroma and especially good luster and color.”
 
Also, Ginjo consists of the Honjozo type and Junmai type, with the Honjozo type prepared by adding a small amount of distilled alcohol prior to the filtration process (the limit to the amount of additives is the same amount regulated for the Honjozo type). Therefore, Ginjo actually consists of four different types – the Honjozo type consisting of “Ginjo” and “Daiginjo,” and the Junmai type consisting of the “Junmai Ginjo” and “Junmai Daiginjo.”  
 
Ginjo is different from other Japanese sake due to the unique aroma consisting of apples, bananas, and other fruity aromas. This aroma is referred to as the “Ginjo aroma,” and this aroma is the life of Ginjo. 
 
However, not all Ginjo necessarily have this aroma notably, some with a faint Ginjo aroma while hardly detectable in other Ginjo. The sake production method that generates this unique aroma is called the “Ginjo method.” First, sake rice suitable for brewing sake (such as “Yamanishiki” rice) is used and carefully polished to high rice polishing ratios over time, with the water content absorbed to suppress moisture in the steamed sake rice.   
 
Rice malt is prepared using special young rice malt while the highly-rated No. 9 yeast is used to prepare yeast for Ginjo, then fermented at low temperatures over a long period of time.
 
For general sake, the highest temperature for fermenting mash is generally around 59 degrees F, with fermentation suppressed to around 20 days, approximately. However, for Ginjo, the fermenting mash is fermented below 50 degrees F for over 30 days approximately, at low-temperatures theoretically close to the limit for fermentation. Also, the lower the temperature is for fermentation, the more days it takes for fermentation, adding additional work and costs. However, this effort is what generates the fresh, fruity, elegant Ginjo sake aroma.