Sake Nation: “Japan’s Rice Crisis in the Reiwa Era: Challenges Facing Sake Rice Supply. Part 2”
By Kosuke Kuji
In the previous column, I explained just how difficult the situation surrounding rice for everyday consumption had become during Japan’s “Reiwa Rice Crisis.” The price of rice had more than doubled, making it difficult for Japanese people to buy rice. As a result, unable to eat rice as they normally would, people turned to bread, udon noodles, and pasta instead—and sales of all of these foods rose across the board.
This Reiwa Rice Crisis also had a major impact on the world of sake. As you may know, the main ingredients of sake are “rice” and “water.”
Water is basically sourced from wells and other natural sources, so it generally does not cost much. Rice, on the other hand, is purchased from farmers or agricultural cooperatives after entering into contracts with them, and breweries use carefully inspected rice for sake production. In the case of wine, many wineries grow their own grapes and make wine from them. With sake, however, there have traditionally been farmers who specialize in growing rice, while sake breweries, which are corporations, face a high barrier to entering the agricultural business. As a result, there are almost no breweries that grow 100% of the rice they use to make their own sake. Because of this, many breweries grow their rice under contract with farmers or agricultural cooperatives. This is why the Reiwa Rice Crisis involving rice for everyday consumption had such a major impact on the sake industry.
The first major problem was that the price of rice for everyday consumption doubled. This meant that farmers could earn much more by selling their rice as table rice.
So, what happened next?
Farmers began to stop growing sake rice, which brings in less profit and is more difficult to grow. In other words, breweries found themselves in a situation where they desperately wanted to make sake, but there simply was not enough sake rice available.
Of course, there were also farmers who continued to properly grow sake rice without switching to the more expensive rice for everyday consumption. Even so, there was still a serious shortage of sake rice.
To be continued in the next issue.
This Reiwa Rice Crisis also had a major impact on the world of sake. As you may know, the main ingredients of sake are “rice” and “water.”
Water is basically sourced from wells and other natural sources, so it generally does not cost much. Rice, on the other hand, is purchased from farmers or agricultural cooperatives after entering into contracts with them, and breweries use carefully inspected rice for sake production. In the case of wine, many wineries grow their own grapes and make wine from them. With sake, however, there have traditionally been farmers who specialize in growing rice, while sake breweries, which are corporations, face a high barrier to entering the agricultural business. As a result, there are almost no breweries that grow 100% of the rice they use to make their own sake. Because of this, many breweries grow their rice under contract with farmers or agricultural cooperatives. This is why the Reiwa Rice Crisis involving rice for everyday consumption had such a major impact on the sake industry.
The first major problem was that the price of rice for everyday consumption doubled. This meant that farmers could earn much more by selling their rice as table rice.
So, what happened next?
Farmers began to stop growing sake rice, which brings in less profit and is more difficult to grow. In other words, breweries found themselves in a situation where they desperately wanted to make sake, but there simply was not enough sake rice available.
Of course, there were also farmers who continued to properly grow sake rice without switching to the more expensive rice for everyday consumption. Even so, there was still a serious shortage of sake rice.
To be continued in the next issue.
酒豪大陸「令和の米騒動から来る酒米の問題 その2」
前回のコラムでは日本でおこった令和の米騒動での食米がどのように大変な状況だったかお伝えしました。
食米も2倍以上に高騰して、日本人が米を買えなくなり、米を食べられずにパンやうどん、そしてパスタの売り上げは軒並み上昇しました。
この令和の米騒動は日本酒の世界にも大きな影響を与えました。
ご存じの通り、日本酒の原材料は「米」「水」です。
水は井戸水などを使うのが基本ですので、お金は基本的にかかりませんが、米は農家や農協と契約をして、検査をしっかりとした米を購入して酒造りをします。ワインの場合は自社でブドウを育てて醸すところが多いのですが、日本酒は古くから米は米をつくる専門の農家がいて、株式会社である酒蔵が農業に参入するハードルが高く、100%自社の造る日本酒の米を自社で育てている蔵はほぼありません。そうなると米は農家さんや農協と契約栽培する蔵が多く、これが令和の食米の米騒動の影響を大きく受けました。
まず大変だったのが、食米が2倍に値段があがりましたので、農家に入ってくる収入も食米を売れば大きく増えます。そうなるとどうなるかというと、もうけの少なく、育てるのが大変な酒米は「作ってもらえない」という状況になりました。日本酒を造りたいのに酒米が全く足りない、という状況に陥りました。
もちろん中には高い食米にシフトせずに酒米をちゃんとつくってくれる農家さんもありましたが、それでも酒米が全く足りなくなってしまったのです。
次回にまた続きます。
食米も2倍以上に高騰して、日本人が米を買えなくなり、米を食べられずにパンやうどん、そしてパスタの売り上げは軒並み上昇しました。
この令和の米騒動は日本酒の世界にも大きな影響を与えました。
ご存じの通り、日本酒の原材料は「米」「水」です。
水は井戸水などを使うのが基本ですので、お金は基本的にかかりませんが、米は農家や農協と契約をして、検査をしっかりとした米を購入して酒造りをします。ワインの場合は自社でブドウを育てて醸すところが多いのですが、日本酒は古くから米は米をつくる専門の農家がいて、株式会社である酒蔵が農業に参入するハードルが高く、100%自社の造る日本酒の米を自社で育てている蔵はほぼありません。そうなると米は農家さんや農協と契約栽培する蔵が多く、これが令和の食米の米騒動の影響を大きく受けました。
まず大変だったのが、食米が2倍に値段があがりましたので、農家に入ってくる収入も食米を売れば大きく増えます。そうなるとどうなるかというと、もうけの少なく、育てるのが大変な酒米は「作ってもらえない」という状況になりました。日本酒を造りたいのに酒米が全く足りない、という状況に陥りました。
もちろん中には高い食米にシフトせずに酒米をちゃんとつくってくれる農家さんもありましたが、それでも酒米が全く足りなくなってしまったのです。
次回にまた続きます。

